A Scrumptious Seafood Congee in Bangkok’s Buzzing Chinatown

I went on several eating marathons in Bangkok. But I offset them by walking everywhere. My most arduous and longest journey of the one-month stint I did in Bangkok had to be walking from Sukhumvit 11 out to Chinatown. I was a man on a mission. Other than getting to Chinatown in one piece and without having soaked through my t-shirt (I failed), I had no real plans or idea of what to do (or where to go) when I got there. 

However, like a light bulb turning on (insert whatever cartoon resonates with you where a lightbulb flashes on over a character’s head when they get an idea) I knew I found what I was looking for after passing by a small outdoor food stall with cafeteria style foldable tables and three silver-haired Thai men hovering over bowls of fresh squid. 

Enter ‘Khao Tom Pla Plaeng Nam’ – a fresh seafood Teochew-style congee spot near Yaowarat in Bangkok’s bustling Chinatown. This place is a congee institution. And I found out why.

Feel the Rhythm, Feel the Rhyme, Get on Up, It’s Congee Time

Address & Details: 

• Hours: 3:30 PM to 10 PM, 7 Days a Week
• Address: 560 ถ. เยาวราช Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100, Thailand

My front-row view of the action. There is an unparalleled palpable energy that exists when you sit front and center on the street while hordes of Chinatown-goers frantically push through. Shop employees gracefully navigate the crowds with bowls of congee stacked on each arm while the cacophony of customized orders shouted in Thai slowly morphs into a symphony. 

And the conductor, adjacent, sets the tempo of it all – ladling clear broth and rice into white bowls (sans salt and MSG), transferring assorted seafood from ice to its new temporary perch, and garnishing it with sprinkles of coriander. 

You absorb the energy. Then, you channel it into a seemingly bland bowl of rice porridge – which is anything but once you take your first bite (or slurp). I don’t know why but I am picturing Gerard Butler in 300, ripped abs, cape and all, standing outside of the stall, screaming at the top of his lungs, “This is Teochew Congee!’.

Side note: I may or may not have stopped for a quick beef brisket on toast at Sarnies Bangkok before, so I was “playing injured,” so to speak upon arrival.

Generous Chunks of White Snapper, Oysters, & Squid

Look, I know what you’re thinking. You are playing the world’s most dangerous game eating a hodgepodge of seafood from a food stall on the side of the street in the sweltering Bangkok heat. And you know what, that was my first thought as well. 

However, after taking my first spoonful of the broth, I realized there was no fishy flavor and I had totally gone into this with the wrong mindset (or maybe it is just PTSD from having pooped my pants three times in Asia). There were no pungent smells, overly chewy seafood, or overcooked/undercooked jasmine rice at its base. Just generous portions of fresh, clean, quality, squid, shrimp, white snapper, and oysters. 

For such a mammoth bowl of congee, it is surprisingly light. The broth absorbs a medley of sweet and slightly briny flavors from the seafood but not in an overpowering or heavy way. 

From my understanding of Teochew congee (Chaoshan region of Guangdong Province in China), it is far thinner in consistency, simpler in construction and depth, and heavier on seafood, than say a thicker, creamier traditional Cantonese-style porridge or fragrant, chicken and/or pork-infused, Thai congee broth (Jok). 

The jasmine rice sits at the bottom of the bowl while the clear broth does most of the initial heavy lifting with your spoonfuls of seafood. By the time you reach the rice, it has absorbed enough flavor from the seafood and your customized sauces or toppings that the term “bland” isn’t even in your vocabulary.

Not pictured are the red peppers, chili and fish sauces, and miso available on the table to kick your porridge up a notch. I did notice who I perceived to be the true legends of Khao Tom Pla Plaeng Nam knew exactly how to customize their bowls. Maybe it is the equivalent of me ordering the same footlong sandwich at Subway since I was 13 years old. 

For first-timers, you should go heavy on the miso (soybean paste), as I really do believe the value and intention of this restaurant is to serve a formidable seafood base that can be tailored to whatever a customer’s heart desires. They keep the margin of error extremely low which I think, unsurprisingly, allows them to focus on serving up high-quality seafood and perfectly balanced broth.

It will take you a bit to find your “happy place.” Think Billy Madison putting with visions of Veronica Vaughn delivering him pitchers of beer in her lingerie while Chubbs plays the piano with both hands.

A Congee Institution Preserving Teochew Tradition in Bangkok’s Chinatown

Khao Tom Pla Plaeng Nam’s seafood congee caught me by surprise. I’ve made my food rounds in Asia and was never, particularly the biggest congee fan. However, I think this is because I never found a style that resonated with my congee needs. 

I prefer it light. I prefer it stacked to the brim with clean, high-quality seafood. I prefer it served out on the sidewalk where I feel as if I am part of the social and gastronomical fabric of a place. I think I finally found it.

Finally, the total damage came to just around 150 baht (or slightly more as I had a fresh juice from what I think is a partnered juice vendor?), which is just under USD 5. Most importantly, you’ll also have plenty of room left in your stomach for other Chinatown snacks and eating adventures.

If you make your way to Chinatown and end up eating at Khao Tom Pla Plaeng Nam, I’d love to hear from you in the comments. Or, if you have any other favorite spots in Bangkok’s Chinatown, please let me know!

Eat well everyone,

Big Body