Layover in Hong Kong? Here’s Exactly What to Do

Do you have a layover in Hong Kong and more than a few hours to kill before the next leg of your flight? I completely understand that you don’t want to waste it at the airport, especially when Asia’s ‘World City’ is at your fingertips. 

Well, I’ve got some good stellar news. 

Hong Kong is emphatically one of the best cities in the world to spend a layover in. World-class transportation means that you can be smack-dab in the city center in just 24 minutes, it’s home to nearly 100 Michelin-starred restaurants and thousands of more equally just as delicious eating haunts, nightlife rages into the wee morning hours, it has visa-free entry for most travelers, and the city’s must-see sites and attractions are all easily accessible. 

Whether you have a 4, 6, 8, or 12-hour-plus layover in Hong Kong, this guide (written by someone who has been living in the city for seven years) will help you make the most of it and ensure that you get a proper ‘feel’ for the city. And, I guarantee you won’t board the second leg of your flight hungry. 

Pale Ale Travel Note: Keep in mind that most components suggested in these timeframes can be done individually and paired with each other! So just because I put it under ‘short layover’ or ‘long layover’, it doesn’t mean you should write it off!

Short Layover (Under 5 Hours)

As eaten at Chukfo Taipan in Wan Chai.

My baseline rule for a doable layover in Hong Kong is that you need four or more hours that do not include immigration, customs, and security for you to feasibly (and comfortably) get into the city and tackle at least one or two things (without heart palpitations). 

Any less than four hours and I would strongly consider staying at the airport or simply popping out to Tung Chung (right next to HKIA) to explore the Citygate Outlets shopping complex and grab a bite (Paradise Dynasty or Sunset Grill for the win!). 

I completely understand that those reading this Hong Kong layover guide won’t all land at the same time…or a particularly ideal time of day (or night). So, I’ve broken this short layover in Hong Kong up into 3 distinct sections: morning, afternoon, and night. 

Morning

I’m #TeamEggYolkBun until I die.

Now, this one is for those with a Hong Kong layover at one of those ungodly hours in the morning. But one of those witching hours where it just isn’t in the cards to get Swackhammered off of vodka sodas and San Miguel beers. It’s time to eat. 

One of Hong Kong’s best-kept early morning secrets (even amongst expats) is early morning dim sum at Sun Hing Restaurant in Sai Wan/Kennedy Town, just a 10-minute taxi ride from Hong Kong Station. It’s cramped, it’s loud, it’s dated, and it’s goddamn delicious. And it opens at 3 AM. 

If you want an authentic dim sum fix in Hong Kong, this is your spot. Personal favorites include egg yolk buns, turnip cakes, and beef balls. 

This is hands down my number one recommendation if you want to experience true Hong Kong and only have several hours. 

If your layover falls during a more reasonable morning timeframe, it’s open until 4 PM. If you’d prefer to stick closer to Central, you’re in Cantonese gastronomic heaven with choices like Lin Heung Lau, one of the remaining traditional push-cart dim sum restaurants, and Lan Fong Yuen, a 70-year-plus tea house serving up savory and sweet Hong Kong-style french toast, chunky pork chop buns, and their famous milk tea (strained with pantyhose). 

While many sites and media publications recommend visiting Tim Ho Wan for dim sum, I think the above spots put it to shame and offer a much more ‘authentic’ Hong Kong experience. Eating dim sum in a metro station just ain’t my vibe when you have so many other choices. 

Pale Ale Travel Tip: I even have to tip my cap to the popular Ding Dim 1968 on Wyndham Street, which is always a reliable and affordable choice for dim sum in Central! It’s where locals and expats both recover after a long night in Lan Kwai Fong (or SoHo). However, it opens at 11 AM. 

Afternoon

The Tian Tan Buddha, much like Big Body, is a big big boy.

Maybe exploring Hong Kong Island isn’t in the cards. That’s perfectly fine! Hong Kong just so happens to be famous for its 34-meter-tall bronze statue of Buddha (Tian Tan Buddha) which is located on Lantau Island (where the airport is). 

Consider taking a 15-minute taxi from the airport to Tung Chung, where the Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car is just a several-minute walk. It’s a gondola with clear glass bottoms that connects Tung Chung to Ngong Ping Village, taking just twenty-five minutes and dropping you off a stone’s throw from the Tian Tan Buddha and Po Lin Monastery. 

Climb the 268 steps up to the Big Buddha for breathtaking views of the surrounding mountain area, water, and Lantau Island, before exploring the Po Lin Monastery and its grounds, which is home to a vegetarian restaurant serving Cantonese staples. 

Depending on how you’re doing for time, you can either wrap things up by grabbing some souvenirs and snacks in Ngong Ping Village or hop on the 21 Bus to the historic fishing village Tai O. 

Home to the fishing community of Tanka people, Tai O consists of interconnected stilted houses above the tidal flats of Lantau and is the ultimate excursion for a peak into Hong Kong heritage, fresh seafood, unique local snacks (mochi, cuttlefish patties, fish balls, and tea cakes). 

Pale Ale Travel Tip: A lot of readers reach out and are a bit hesitant about planning a trip to Hong Kong due to news outlets and media organizations always referring to it as ‘prohibitively expensive’. I’ll say this. But for accommodation, it is surprisingly affordable. Learn more about potential costs in my post ‘Is Hong Kong Expensive to Visit?’.  

Night

This is where it all starts in Lan Kwai Fong.

This next one is for those who find themselves in the 10 PM to 4 or 5 AM layover bracket. Back in my early 20s, it wasn’t unheard of to be in Hong Kong’s most righteous party district, Lan Kwai Fong, drinking into the early morning hours and encountering tourists simply killing time before the second leg of their flight. 

The beauty of Lan Kwai Fong is that it’s less than a 10-minute walk from Hong Kong Station, so you can pop right out from the Airport Express. It’s also centrally located and perfect for hailing taxis or hopping on the N11 Citybus to the Airport, which runs through the night.  

Post-2023 (you know that one thing that debilitated the whole world for several years?), Hong Kong is inching closer and closer back into full-force on the party front, meaning a debaucherous and unforgettable (or forgettable due to the booze) several hours in Hong Kong’s compact entertainment square/district of bars, clubs, and restaurants isn’t just an option, it’s a must. 

Venerated institutions like China Bar, Sahara Lounge (formerly on Elgin Street), and Geronimo Shot Bar blast spine-crushing tunes while serving up more shots (and shisha) than that one strange 2000s electronic dance duo LMFAO could handle. 

Or, simply cruise between D’Aguilar Street and Lan Kwai Fong Street with a 7-11 tallboy or breezer, reveling with other like-minded individuals in the street, allowing yourself to go with the flow and pop into wherever suits your vibe.

Pale Ale Travel Note: One of my best friends was briefly in town many moons ago and we spent it drinking in Lan Kwai Fong until 6 or 7 in the morning. He made his flight and passed out for the following 17 hours, waking up and striking up a conversation with an older Australian gentleman next to him. That older gentleman? My father. What a small world. 

If you really ‘got that dog in you’, want to boogie to some of the best live music in the city, and don’t mind a more ‘sordid vibe’, consider hopping off the Airport Express and heading to Wan Chai. It’s a hotspot for pubs, sports bars, and discos, all of which will be bumping live music most nights of the week, my favorite being The Wanch for local bands. 

To sober up before you get to the airport, both Sun Hing Restaurant in Sai Wan/Kennedy Town (as noted above) and Dim Dim Sum (Mong Kok) are open early in the morning. Sun Hing opens at 3 AM while Dim Dim Sum closes for the night at 2 AM. 

‘Siu yeh’ (宵夜), aka ‘late night snacks’ can be found between Temple Street/Temple Street Night Market in Jordan, Mong Kok, and Sham Sui Po. Simply strolling through each one of these districts at night is also another fantastic way to spend a short (or medium-length) layover in Hong Kong. These are hectic, nostalgic, historic areas that represent the true beating heart of Hong Kong. 

Medium Layover (4-8 Hours)

Taken on one of my many strolls along the promenade.

If I had my druthers and a medium-length layover in Hong Kong, here’s exactly what I would do. 

1. Stroll along the Hong Kong Island Promenade or Avenue of the Stars in Tsim Sha Tsui,
2. Ride the Star Ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central,
3. Take the Mid-Levels Escalators to the top (Conduit Road),
4. Stop to explore the bustling heritage arts venue Tai Kwun and its exhibitions related to colonial-era prison life and Hong Kong’s police force, 
5. Queue at Bakehouse for their buttery, flaky sourdough egg tarts along the ride (the line moves faster than you’d expect), and 
6. Walk along Conduit Road before hiking one-hour via The Peak Morning Trail to a viewing area of Victoria Peak. 

Pale Ale Travel Note: If you’re in the market for breakfast, consider hitting up one of the above dim sum or tea house spots to start the day!

This route can really feasibly be done at any point between 10 AM and 11 PM, just make sure that you have at least 4 to 5 hours to be safe. 

Don’t let the line discourage you. It moves quickly and is worth it!

Night hikes to The Peak are G.O.A.T.’ed, in my humble opinion, and nothing makes you feel more like you’re in Ghost in a Shell than when looking down at the tens of thousands of lights and buildings against the black backdrop of the night. 

Don’t worry, if you aren’t feeling the hour hike up to The Peak, queuing for The Peak Tram, Hong Kong’s first funicular cable railway, and riding it to the top for a bird’s eye view of the world’s best skyline is also an option. 

Cabbing to The Peak is also an option. 

My favorite spots for the best views of Hong Kong Island, Victoria Harbour, and Kowloon are (1) The Peak Sky Terrace 428, and (2) Victoria Peak’s Lion Pavilion. 

I told you, night views of Hong Kong Island from Victoria Peak are next-level.

Caffeinate at either Starbucks or Blue Bottle Coffee in The Peak Galleria (shopping complex) before grabbing another egg tart or pastry at Tai Cheong Bakery, a paneer or curry from one of my favorite Indian restaurants Rajasthan Rifles, or slurping down a bowl of thin, firm egg noodles with beef at Mak’s Noodle. 

Feel free to walk down the way you came, hail a taxi, or hop on one of the buses under The Peak Galleria. I generally recommend cabbing or bussing down to save time. You already got that Vitamin D on the way up. 

If you weren’t too hungry at the top, grab some of the best roast goose and BBQ pork (siu mei) in the city at Dragon State Kitchen in Sheung Wan or Chukfo Taipan in Wan Chai and call it a day.

Pale Ale Travel Tip: I don’t want to make any crazy suggestions but Hong Kong’s only Burger King is atop The Peak and a regular favorite of mine. I also don’t think there’s a single other BK in the world with views quite like this. I’m not saying you have to eat here. But I’m not saying you shouldn’t eat here. 

Long Layover (8-12+ Hours)

I can’t say I’m thrilled about companies like Visa and McDonald’s being plastered on the Star Ferry but I want them to survive.

Frankly, you can accomplish a lot in Hong Kong in 8 to 12 or more hours. So, I recommend checking out my one-day Hong Kong itinerary and combining several timeframes/activities that stand out to you. I don’t want to be a broken record and simply repeat everything I put in there. 

Hint: I’m particularly fond of the Tai Kwun + Upper Lascar Row and Poho combo!

However, there are several additional things that I would absolutely make sure to accomplish on a long layover in Hong Kong:

Ride the Ding Ding

Faster than a speeding bullet, it’s the Ding Ding.

Hong Kong’s iconic narrow gauge tram system stretches nearly the entire length of Hong Kong Island. Grab a coffee, a beer, or Pocari Sweat, and make your way to the upper deck of the tram. 

Relax and soak in the sites as the tram carves through some of the city’s most historic districts. 

Consider alighting near Pedder Street and making your way to the AIA Carnival to ride the Observation Wheel. I wouldn’t recommend spending much time at the AIA Carnival. However, the Hong Kong Observation Wheel is a relaxed way to take in the city’s skyline!

Happy Wednesdays

You don’t have to bet at the races! I just put down HK$20 or so on a race or two to make it more interesting.

If you land on a Wednesday and have the night free, head to the Happy Valley Racecourse for the infamous horse races. Picture an open-air party with flowing beer, gambling (or no gambling), dancing, and live music. 

You can even take the Ding Ding to get there. Follow it up by partying the night away in Wan Chai like a true degenerate. 

Kowloon Exploration

I know why the caged Big Body sings.

Start your journey in Tsim Sha Tsui (after taking the Star Ferry) and walk north on the gargantuan Nathan Road to Mong Kok, stopping at Kowloon Park, Sneaker Street, Goldfish Street, Flower Street, Yuen Po Street Bird Garden. 

Follow it up with an early dinner and snacks at Temple Street Night Market. For the ambitious, continue through to Sham Shui Po for classic ‘wok cooking’ and flavors at Oi Man Sang. 

Tsim Sha Tsui & West Kowloon Art Park

Yes, I was wearing a blazer when I took this because I’m fancy.

Stroll along the Avenue of the Stars, taking pictures with statues of Bruce Lee, Anita Mui, and McDull (an anthropomorphic pig cartoon character) while enjoying skyline views of Hong Kong Island. 

Stop at malls like K11 Musea and Harbour City, or pop into the back streets of Tsim Sha Tsui. There’s a Starbucks on the Avenue of Stars (Tsim Sha Tsui East) with plenty of outdoor seating, with arguably some of the best views of the city. 

Circle back to Tsim Sha Tsui ferry pier and hail a taxi or grab either the 281A or 215X buses to West Kowloon Art Park in the West Kowloon Cultural District. 

Pop into the M+ Museum for a look into 20th and 21st-century visual art exhibits, architecture, moving images, and other visual culture before heading down to the West Kowloon Art Park’s sprawling lush promenade with panoramic views of the city. 

There’s a handful of restaurants and cafes along the promenade that are perfect to post up at and slug a coffee, beer, or cocktail. Also, a pro tip is that you can actually pick up a bottle of prosecco or wine from any of the restaurants and head over to the grass for a picnic. 

Hong Kong Layover Tips

I’ve been overconfident on more than a handful of layovers, which ultimately resulted in me nearly having a heart attack as I hurried my way back to the airport, unsure if I’d be able to make my flight in time. I don’t want that to happen to you, so keep the following tips in mind: 

Before you touch down, get an Octopus Card for your phone, Hong Kong’s value-added smart card used for transportation, shops, and more, along with an eSim for internet and connectivity. Both will allow you to hit the ground running once you land. 

Immigration and customs at Hong Kong International Airport are lightyears ahead of most other airports in the world. However, on occasion, it can still take 30 minutes or more upon arrival to clear immigration. Departures are typically a breeze and only take around 5 to 15 minutes (max) to clear. 

The answer is almost always ‘Take the Airport Express’.

While your luggage was likely checked through to your final destination, you may have some handheld baggage that you want to offload for the time being. Level 5 of Terminal 1 is a non-restricted area that has hourly baggage storage. Prices start at HK$14 per hour and go up to HK$165 for the whole day. 

While the Airport Express only takes 24 minutes from Hong Kong Airport to Central, the frequency of the train is every 10 to 15 minutes, so if you just miss the most recent train, you may be looking at more of a 35 to 45-minute timeframe before you’re (a) in the city center or (b) back at the airport. Factor in another 5 to 10 minutes for getting in and out of the station as well. The point is, 24 minutes isn’t always 24 minutes flat.  

Further, the Airport Express runs from 5:54 AM to 12:48 AM daily. 

An important note: Just because you take the Airport Express to one location (ex. Hong Kong Station), doesn’t mean that you have to limit yourself to leaving from there! For example, You could land at Hong Kong Station and explore Hong Kong Island for the first half of your layover, followed by heading to Tsim Sha Tsui/Kowloon to explore for the second half, hopping on the Airport Express at its Kowloon Station stop. 

Outside of the Airport Express’s hours, a bus, taxi, Uber, or UberTaxi are going to be your best friends for getting into the city and back. I recommend being at the Airport Express 2 to 2.5 hours or more before your flight. 

Buses can take anywhere from 50 minutes to over an hour, so make sure to factor this in! Uber and taxis fall somewhere in between the Airport Express and buses time-wise, clocking in around 35 to 45 minutes for a trip to/from the city center. 

For taxis, cash still rules so either (a) withdraw some money from one of the airport ATMs (there are several HSBC ATMs), (b) bite the bullet and exchange money at one of the unscrupulous currency exchanges, or (c) ask the taxi attendant to pair you with a taxi that accepts electronic payments. 

Taxis are also color-coded, meaning that red taxis will take you to Hong Kong Island, green taxis to the New Territories, and blue taxis across Lantau (the island where HKIA is located). 

A view of the city from my room at the Bishop Lei.

If you need to exchange some cash in the city center, make sure to head to my go-to currency exchange in Sheung Wan for fair rates and efficient service. Oh, and it’s open on Sundays!

If your layover is more than 12 hours and you’re planning on booking a hotel for the night, several spots I recommend are:

• Regal Airport Hotel: a 5-star hotel right next to the passenger terminal at HKIA. It’s more of a 4-star hotel with it being slightly dated. However, it has a gym, pool, steam room, sauna, and spa, along with a handful of restaurants. Convenience, convenience, convenience. 
• Bishop Lei International House: an affordable no-frills hotel located in the heart of Mid-Levels. On top of being within walking distance (right off the Mid-Levels Escalators) from Hong Kong Station, its shuttle to the station makes getting to and from the Airport Express a breeze. It’s also a sleeper for one of my favorite pool views in the city. 
• Burlington Hotel: the definition of a sleek, modern, compact business hotel in Wan Chai. Slightly pricier than the Bishop Lei but it’s perfect if you want to be in one of Hong Kong’s most bustling (and drool-worthy) districts.  
• Novotel (Tung Chung): one of the more reliable hotel chains I’ve stayed at. Great for convenience, sticking close to the airport (and activities on Lantau Island), and spacious well-designed rooms with a view. 
• iClub Sheung Wan: small minimalist yet sleek rooms that are some of the most affordable on Hong Kong Island. And it’s within walking distance from the Sheung Wan MTR. Great for exploring Hong Kong Island without breaking the bank. 

Pale Ale Travel Tip: For further information on accommodation in Asia’s World City, make sure to check out my post breaking down five of the best affordable hotels in Hong Kong – all of which stay true to convenience and comfort without bankrupting you.

That Hong Kong Layover Felt Like a Dream

Temple Street Night Market has ALL the snacks.

Who says layovers have to mean finding an empty corner of the airport, scrounging together several t-shirts to roll into a makeshift pillow, and uncomfortably trying to catch some shut-eye before the second leg of your trip?

The beauty of Hong Kong is that its compact nature allows you to run through several days worth of activities (if you really hustle) in a short period, meaning that a layover is just a limiting word we place on ourselves to avoid stepping outside of our comfort zone. 

Make sure to visit Hong Kong again and give it a proper 3 to 5 days (or more), I guarantee you won’t be disappointed. 

If you have any questions about traveling to Hong Kong, including where to eat or drink, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me. I also offer customized itineraries for travelers of all budgets, so if that is something you’d be interested in, please inquire about pricing!

Travel well everyone,

Big Body