Big Body asking for more as Oliver Twist

I Launched a Free Newsletter

If you know me in real life or could surmise from my regular patronizing of Polish milk bars over the last two months, the sharp vicissitudes of fortune have been cast over Big Body. Like Thackery Binx in the early-90s Halloween classic Hocus Pocus (love Bette Midler) when the Sanderson sisters cast a spell over him in 1693, turning him into an immortal black cat. 

And like Binx, I’m also unsure if I’ll make it back to my previous form or remain destined to subsist only off of milk and tins of tuna fish (with the occasional watered-down lager or swig of street wine). 

So, I’ve launched a free newsletter for Pale Ale Travel. Yes, free, $0. Just to clarify, I didn’t do this because I’m living my personal mid-thirties Dickensian dream (nightmare?). Simply put, Big Body has a lot of time on his hands and this is one of those rare opportunities in life where I can dive head first into something I’ve always wanted to do (and bet on myself) – and that’s create until I can’t create no mo’. 

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Fini's Homemade Sausage New Haven-style Pizza

Run, Don’t Walk to Get Yourself Fini’s New Haven-Style Pizza

If you’ve read more than a single post on this blog then you may think that I get jazzed about certain foods or things way too easily. On the contrary, I’m usually quite reserved in my gastronomic celebrations (which look somewhat similar to NFL end zone dances) and am known to be a predictable creature of habit with my everyday munchings. So, it requires more than just well-packaged, Instagrammable hype to turn this Big Body from skeptic to believer. 

It’s not about the panache. It’s about the pa-nosh. I’ll see myself out. 

The thing is with Fini’s Italian American in Hong Kong, there was minimal skepticism to begin with. I’ve been an ardent and vociferous supporter of its SoHo branch for many years and can often be found pensively staring down the bottom of an Asahi draft and bowl of their homemade mac n’ cheese post-Peak hike (walk?). 

So, like Don Ready, an American hero (in the company of legends like Henry David Thoreau and David Lee Roth) who stood up for our right to smoke a cigarette while 30,000 feet up in the air, I already knew Fini’s had “the goods.” But I didn’t know just how much better it could get. Enter Hong Kong food and beverage industry titan Vinny Lauria (and fellow New Hampshirite) and a pizza that, outside of New England, is relatively unknown (albeit it is still nationally lauded by pizza critics) – the New Haven-style pizza

Here’s why you need to get on down to Fini’s Italian American to pick up one of these coal-fired, thin-crust saucers of perfection before another Hong Kong pizza joint attempts to hijack this apizza (pronounced “ah-beets”) glory and puts you off from ever trying it. 

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Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

Is Arashiyama Bamboo Forest an Ethereal Bamboo Wonderland or Overcrowded Tourist Trap?

Look, I get it. Travel is precious and you don’t want to spend your hard-earned dollars (and newly converted Japanese yen) or time at a destination, experience, or sight that has you feeling worse than that one guy who proposed right next to a cliff and fumbled the ring into the canyon adjacent. Or even worse, something that doesn’t make you feel anything at all. 

So, in the interest of allowing you to make a more educated decision about one of Kyoto’s most popular attractions and sightseeing districts, here are my thoughts on social media’s favorite ‘Arashiyama Bamboo Grove’ and if it’s worth visiting or skipping altogether. 

I’ll say it. Arashiyama Bamboo Grove didn’t do it for me. It was one of the only sights during my three months living in Japan that didn’t live up to the hype and left me wondering if my time could have been better spent elsewhere. That’s not to say that it was a complete waste as I still got to experience it with one of my best dawgz after several years and several continents apart. 

However, if you go to Kyoto’s Arashiyama district and bamboo grove, I would adjust your expectations accordingly and make your bamboo pilgrimage with a plan. 

So, is Arashiyama Bamboo Forest the ethereal bamboo wonderland you saw online or is it just another overcrowded tourist trap that can be skipped? 

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Kam's Roast Goose at SCAA

Roast Goose & Bowl: The Strikin’ Geese Take on the South China Athletic Association

If you don’t have a South China Athletic Association (SCAA) membership, go get one right now. No, this isn’t like the American Club or Carlyle & Co which requires you to sell plasma or beg your bozo British boss for significantly more than your measly expected 3.5% raise just to afford a membership. And, you don’t have to forcefully mingle with people named ‘Tavis’, ‘Blaire’, and ‘Zac’ (‘‘Z-A-C’ does not spell Zack, what the eff is with all that?’’ – Big D & The Kids Table) while discussing Instagram follower counts, Bali beach club bottle service, and other “wannabe Hi-So expat drivel.”

The SCAA is the most affordable club membership in Hong Kong, starting at just HK$130 per month for ‘visiting members’ or HK$250 per year for ‘ordinary members’. Even better, a lifetime membership will only run you HK$3,000. So, if you’re planning to live more than 12 years, this is an absolute steal. And, your membership allows you to bring 3 people at any given time. Simply walk in, fill out a short form, and you’re now a full-fledged member, all in under 10 minutes. 

You now have access to one of the most underrated sports complexes and organizations in Hong Kong. 

If you’re not already jazzed up enough on your own personal driving range, billiards room, and of course 60-lane bowling alley (that’s just the beginning), you’re going to scream like Buddy the Elf when he thought the original Santa was making an appearance at the mall when you learn that the SCAA houses a dim sum and Cantonese restaurant, rowdy sports bar with outdoor seating, and one of the city’s best roast goose and fatty char siu (BBQ pork) haunts. 

So, grab your crew, lay off the McDonald’s nuggets and McDoubles the night before, and head on over to the SCAA for a day of “goose and bowl”. I recently did, with my newly named bowling team (just a duo) – ‘The Strikin’ Geese’. And no, ‘The Strikin’ Geese’ are not underprivileged inner city waterfowl who come together to form a rag-tag group of underdog bowlers – however, I could see ‘Hardball’ being remade with an all-Anatidae cast (still with Keanu…obviously). 

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Hong Kong IFC

Is American Express Accepted in Hong Kong? Convenience, Tips, & Reality

As someone whose first credit card was an American Express, it has sat comfortably at the forefront of the inside of my wallet ever since. The fact that over 99% of merchants in the United States accept Amex, along with the unparalleled travel perks (and points), stellar customer service, and exclusive access to lounges and other experiences definitely contributed to this as well.

However, after moving back to Hong Kong in 2020, I learned that one of the most recognizable credit card brands in the world actually might need to take a back seat in my wallet due to the lack of acceptance at restaurants, cafes, shops, and other establishments. 

While American Express has enjoyed a presence in Hong Kong for several decades now, even offering dedicated personal, corporate, and branded Amex cards tailored to Hong Kong residents, I estimate that less than 50% of all merchants in Hong Kong accept American Express. 

While most major mid-range and fine-dining restaurants, hotels, department stores, shopping malls, and bars in Hong Kong accept American Express, it still hasn’t achieved credit card ubiquity amongst businesses like Visa and Mastercard.  

Below, I’ll provide a breakdown of the common spots that accept American Express in Hong Kong along with where it definitely is not accepted. 

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Banh Mi Lan Mi in Saigon District 4

Is There Tipping in Vietnam? Answers From a Former Expat in Ho Chi Minh City

Having moved to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam in mid-2018, with little to no knowledge of Vietnam or Vietnamese customs, I was curious to see if the foreign influence had permeated the country’s service industry – specifically in the context of tipping. After all, Saigon (aka Ho Chi Minh City) is Vietnam’s most populous and cosmopolitan city where Western influence has solidified deep roots in the gastronomic landscape.

As an American, who has at one point in his life been shamed for refusing to tip a Starbucks barista in the U.S. after ordering ahead via the app and picking up the drink myself, I fully acknowledge that the cult of tipping culture in some Western countries (the U.S. is the main culprit, of course), has become utterly preposterous and nonsensical. This is not a stance against tipping rather I feel the line between doing one’s job vs. being compensated extra is becoming thinner and thinner. 

So, it was a huge sigh of relief when I landed in Vietnam and quickly caught on that Vietnamese tipping culture is very different from that in the United States. The general rule is that it is not customary to tip in Vietnam. While the country has undergone a substantial economic and social transformation, with tourism also crawling back to pre-pandemic levels, tipping is still not expected in Vietnam. 

However, there are specific situations where tipping may actually be expected (or appreciated) in Vietnam. Below, I’ll walk you through these instances along with other times I recommend tipping in Vietnam.

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view of Hong Kong skyline from Hutong

Is There Tipping in Hong Kong? Etiquette & Rules Explained By a Long-Term Resident

As an American, the concept of tipping is at the forefront of almost every single interaction. From standard dine-in restaurants to Starbucks and other artisanal coffee shops, taxi drivers, hotels, and even takeout, I fully acknowledge tipping culture has gotten out of control. I was even prompted to tip at a liquor store once after picking up my own booze and paying at the counter. I’m not against tipping but the line is becoming blurred more and more when it comes to requesting a tip vs. what is expected in the ordinary course of one’s job description. 

Frankly, America’s tipping culture is a driving reason why I love eating, drinking, and living in Hong Kong – as tipping in Hong Kong has not even come half as close to reaching the ubiquity (or absurdity) it has in the United States. Except for select situations or events, tipping in Hong Kong is not expected – the default rule is that you don’t need to tip in Hong Kong. Tipping just isn’t part of the culture. It is, however, always appreciated. 

In my opinion, the only ‘mandatory’ time to tip in Hong Kong is during one specific cultural event and festival – Chinese New Year. However, there are several other key situations where I tip in Hong Kong, which I’ll walk you through below. I’ll also break down several key situations I don’t tip or aren’t typically situations most people tip in Hong Kong. 

Having lived in Hong Kong for six-plus years, the below tipping practices and situations are based on my personal experience. I also asked my father (who has lived in Hong Kong for far longer than I have) and friends who grew up here when they tip in the city and incorporated their answers in this post. 

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Flat Iron Burger's Pigalle N Cheese

Flat Iron Burger is the Real Deal: a Concession By Hong Kong’s Nastiest Hater

As I mentioned in my guide breaking down the beefiest, most bodacious burgers in Hong Kong, when Flat Iron Burger came on the scene earlier this year, I wanted to dislike it. I was like Buc Nasty (R.I.P. Charlie Murphy) at The Playa Haters’ Ball in the G.O.A.T.’ed Chappelle’s Show, ‘The Nastiest Hater’ – one of the most diabolical haters this side of the Mississippi. 

I was essentially a Little League father with a dead-end job and a failing marriage, which caused me to become a fanatical supporter of Flat Iron’s predecessor ‘The Butchers Club’. So when I felt my favorite burger in Hong Kong dropped off in quality, it led to me inevitably taking things out on Bryan from accounting and yelling at volunteer teenage umpires who would miss the occasional ball or strike. If you didn’t catch the metaphor, The Butchers Club’s burger was my imaginary Little League son.

Consider this a letter of contrition. Scratch that. Consider this a letter of celebration. As I’ve done so in many facets and instances of life, I came too quick with…judgment. An ‘OPH’ (Original Playa Hater) would have been more cool, calm, and collected, only passing judgment after having tried the burger for himself. Having now frequented Flat Iron Burger five-plus times (with zero intention to stop), it has quickly risen in my power rankings as one of the best burgers in Hong Kong – a heifer harbor prioritizing premium beef and other ingredients, all at an affordable price.

Here’s everything I love about Flat Iron Burger on Elgin Street and why, if you’re in the running for the honor of 2024’s ‘Nastiest Hater’, you need to check yourself before your riggity-wreck yourself. 

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Lan Kwai Fong at night

The Rowdiest Hong Kong Pub Crawl: 17 Bars, 3 Neighborhoods, 1 Brutal Hangover

IMPORTANT: If you embark on this self-guided Hong Kong pub crawl and provide me with proof (a picture of a drink at each bar) that you tackled at least 50% of the bars, I’ll add you to the ‘Wall of Legends’ on this post. Also, if you need a guide, I’ll be more than happy to go down this drunken rabbit hole with you.

I’ve said this many times on the blog and I’ll say it again. I live for hedonism and the spectacle of it all. And everyone knows that starts with a draft beer or Aperol spritz for this Big Body. I’ll keep this simple. If you’re Googling this, you, much like me, have already killed off more brain cells from debaucherous nights than we’d like to admit and need the booze deets in no-nonsense terms. 

This self-guided Hong Kong pub crawl is a 2 to 2.5 km loop that starts along the ferry pier in Central and loops up through Sheung Wan, Soho, and Lan Kwai Fong. It will primarily consist of beer haunts (aka pubs). However, you’ll find a few non-traditional (yet righteous) watering holes sprinkled in (that also serve beer).

I know it can be a big commitment to sign up and pay for a pub crawl with strangers. Yes, I’ve had some very successful nights out doing these but I’ve also met some of the biggest groups of cretins and mouthbreathers I’ve ever encountered. That’s why I created this – to keep in your back pocket if you’re more of a solo drinker or already have your group of Chewbacca-lookalikes and magic makers ready to rumble. 

Without further ado, here is exactly how I would maximize my drinking and the route I would take on this self-guided Hong Kong bar crawl. I’ve slugged my fair share of beers at every single one of these spots and this is the route that made the most sense to me so that you can efficiently carve through Sheung Wan, Soho, and Lan Kwai Fong.

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Split Croatia downtown

Croatia’s Legal Drinking Age as Explained by a Karlovačko-Loving Guy


Moving to Croatia for three months in the dead of winter was completely unexpected for this Big Body. I hadn’t thoroughly thought out my then year in Europe and was, of course, required to leave the Schengen Region after 90 days (this was before Croatia joined the Schengen Area in January 2023). Either way, in the middle of winter in Zagreb and Split, Croatia, one of the only things I could do was drink. And drink I did (Karlovačkos for the win).

From hole-in-the-wall pašticada (a popular braised beef dish) haunts where I’d inevitably get talked into shots of rakija with the bartender, to cozy Zagreb wine bars with the woman I was (then) dating, honey-infused craft beers with cevapis (an absolute must if you travel to Croatia), and shots of slivovitz with one of my best friends when he somehow found himself crashing on my couch, I was more than pleasantly surprised by Croatia’s drinking Rolodex and scene. 

Note: Unfortunately, I’m not cool enough to pop champagne bottles on any of those yachts in the Adriatic but I’d be remiss not to mention that is another storied Croatian booze pastime. 

With Croatia having become almost the de facto Balkan destination for travelers and a digital nomad’s dream (thanks to the introduction of the digital nomad residence permit launched in 2021), a question that might pop up if you’re planning on doing a gap year there, from a country like me (the U.S.) where the drinking age is still the dreaded ‘21’, or heading over with family, is ‘What is the legal drinking age in Croatia?’.

Here’s a bit about Croatia’s drinking age and culture and what I loved about my time living in Split, Croatia. 

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Hong Kong skyline view from TST

3 of the Best VPNs For Hong Kong to Enjoy Uncensored, Uninterrupted Internet Use

Hong Kong is changing. For better or worse, there’s a palpable shift in Hong Kong’s political, social, and economic landscape that stands to carry significant repercussions (or benefits) for its residents – both local and foreign. One of the most pressing questions that seems to be echoed amongst both travelers and citizens of Hong Kong is, “At what point do I need to worry about internet censorship?”. 

Well, I’d argue now – and that answer isn’t even fully driven by the changing political landscape. Virtual proxy networks, aka VPNs, aren’t just an invaluable tool for protecting yourself against unfettered government surveillance and censorship. They are also practical tools that can make everyday life much easier (and electronically safer). 

Whether it’s accessing geo-blocked television shows on your favorite streaming service (the American Netflix catalog in Hong Kong), preventing hackers from intercepting sensitive financial data on poorly secured public networks (ex. cafe), using dedicated work servers while on business trips, or otherwise obfuscating your internet browsing activity, VPNs aren’t just an added value tool in today’s digital world, they are a necessity. I’m currently using one while I write this from a Starbucks in Wan Chai as I just wired some “dollhairs” to another account for my upcoming Europe trip. 

Here are 3 of the best VPNs for Hong Kong so that you can enjoy uncensored, uninterrupted internet use (or watch whatever trash bag television show you live for) – all three of which I’ve personally used during my six-year-plus tenure in Hong Kong.

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Hong Kong skyline at dusk

5 Affordable Hotels in Hong Kong I’ve Personally Tested For Convenience, Comfort, & Cleanliness

I was inspired to write this post as we’re currently in the thick of Golden Week in Hong Kong, one of the busiest times of the year where hotel prices are through the roof and available rooms are few and far between. Even as someone who has lived in Hong Kong for six-plus years, I have been through it all before, trying to find an affordable, mid-range hotel in Hong Kong that doesn’t break the bank nor compromise on comfort. 

Moving back to Hong Kong amid a global pandemic saw me quarantine in a hotel for two weeks, followed by a month in limbo while trying to nail down an apartment. My lease expired in 2023, after which I spent six months out of Hong Kong and returned to yet another month-long stint in a hotel. During my time traveling to and living in Hong Kong, I’ve had to figure out a roster of affordable, mid-range hotels that won’t bankrupt me and also don’t have me living with the roaches or like the kids from Oliver Twist. 

Depending on the time of year, hotel prices can definitely vary in Hong Kong. The hotels below generally start anywhere from USD 50 to USD 70 for a standard room. I should note that I, at points, have paid even less than this and up to USD 125 per night. For the convenience, amenities, and quality, there aren’t many better bang-for-your-buck Hong Kong hotels out there.

Here are five affordable hotels in Hong Kong that I’ve personally stayed at – all for more than two weeks each – so that you can spend your money on what really matters when visiting Hong Kong, the food and drink (and Disneyland?). But first, a pros and cons list for each so that you can easily reference and/or scan the post.

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