BigBody, Author at Pale Ale Travel

Is Visiting Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto Worth It?

October 20, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Japan, Travel BigBody Leave a Comment

If you’re planning a trip to Kyoto (or the Kansai Region of Japan), then there’s about a 110% chance you’ve come across the traffic-cone colored, bright orange gates of the popular shrine ‘Fushimi Inari Taisha’. It’s a favorite amongst Instagram, TikTok, and other social media influencers, who especially love showing highly curated (and filtered) shots of them standing in front of a stretch of gates with no one in sight, leading you to believe that you’ll have the place all to yourself.

This is one of the biggest misconceptions that I think throws a lot of people off and leads to disappointment, with a non-zero sum walking away feeling as if Fushimi Inari wasn’t this magical gated portal to the otherworld and back. But is Fushimi Inari actually worth it and should you even bother making a trip if you’re traveling to or through Kyoto?

Yes? No? All the above (sung like Maino in the song ‘All the Above’ with T-Pain)? Here are my thoughts.

Exploring Hiroshima’s Underground Oyakodon Movement at Torisanwa

October 15, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Food, Japan BigBody Leave a Comment

You know how in your quest to find a spectacular new restaurant in whatever country you’re traveling to, you’ll inevitably stumble on a social media influencer’s page who has an oddly well-produced, 30-second video vignette highlighting that restaurant or specific dish (with not another single customer in sight), and suddenly be overcome with this compulsion to eat there even though you know deep down it isn’t going to live up to the hype?

Of course, after arriving, reality hits as you see the two-hour line of other platitudinal travelers eagerly awaiting what turns out to be a meal you could have eaten 100 meters down the street, at one-half the price, and of better quality. Well, this post is to hopefully make you think twice before giving in to that urge.

This post is a call to (eating) arms to avoid settling for the most obvious choice (sometimes). Poke around, open that door that you’re unsure what’s behind it (unless it’s someone’s apartment), walk into a restaurant where you know it will elicit stares and awkwardness as you ask in broken Japanese if there are any available seats, step outside your comfort zone. You might just find the best oyakodon (or other beloved Japanese dish) you’ll ever eat in your life. I did.

Here’s a little bit about how this three-seat oyakodon counter in a supermarket at the bottom of a shopping mall in Hiroshima completely caught me by surprise, bringing me both tremendous joy and sadness at the same time. Joy because I knew this was the apex of what a fantastic oyakodon should be and sadness because I was set to leave Hiroshima the next day.

Florence Trippa: Home of the Best Sandwich You’ve Never Heard of – The Lampredotto

October 14, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Food, Hong Kong BigBody Leave a Comment

Nestled a stone’s throw away from the iconic Mid-Levels escalators, somewhere between the Caine Road Japan Home Centre and the beginning of Old Bailey Street, you’ll find a salt and pepper-haired, mustachioed Italian man in his early 50s donning an (almost) luminescent white T, wielding a pizza peel with the might of the intrepid Vulcan (Hephaestus for those Hellenists out there), and flashing a warm, radiant smile that will melt your heart like creamy, well-rounded provolone over focaccia. His name is Claudio and his shop is ‘Florence Trippa’.

At first glance, it’s easy to miss. Caught in the throes of banal headache, a hurried crowd of pedestrians, and a winding, imposing line of the Chinese restaurant adjacent, two red Florentine flag insignias sandwich black lettering in a nondescript fashion. “Pizza,” “Pasta,” “Panini, “Trippa.” You shake it out of your head. I mean, there are hundreds of pizza shops in the city. You know good Italian food, right? What’s so special about this new spot? Little did you know, you just made the biggest mistake of your month and you haven’t even throttled your first Joe Bananas’ Jägerbomb at 2 AM on Saturday.

On any given night (except Sundays), you’ll find him bobbing and weaving amongst a profusion of pots and pans in a small kitchen, fielding a barrage of takeaway calls and Deliveroo orders with an unflappable grace, carefully ladling slow-cooked vegetable broth over fluffy, freshly toasted buns and sliding thin crust pizzas out of the oven with the precision of a surgeon – a Florentine, gastronomical surgeon. He offers up earnest anecdotes on longevity, happiness, and health, greeting regulars by name and welcoming newcomers as if they were regulars, putting into digestible prose an answer to a question he’s sure to field at least dozens of times per day (for now), “What the heck is a lampredotto?”

And that’s where our story begins. But first, a little housekeeping.

10 Pros and Cons of Living in Mid-Levels, Hong Kong

October 10, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Hong Kong, Travel BigBody Leave a Comment

When moving to Hong Kong, it can be difficult to know exactly what district or neighborhood will suit your lifestyle requirements before you even arrive. The city comprises countless districts, neighborhoods, and pockets, all of which boast their own benefits and drawbacks (and charm) – some you might not believe exist in the same city due to the stark contrast to one another.

Maybe you are more of a beach bum, looking to start your day off with Vitamin D and a morning surf, then Sai Kung might be your little slice of heaven. Or maybe you want a raucous, vibrant maze of both new and old Hong Kong (with fantastic street food), then Mongkok or Jordan might be right up your alley. Or maybe you’re in need of a quiet, residential neighborhood that is only a stone’s throw away from your office and the hustle and bustle of the city. Well, then Mid-Levels might be your place.

As someone who has lived in Mid-Levels for all six-plus years that I’ve existed in Hong Kong (I’m just a creature of habit), here are 10 pros and cons to paint a better picture of what you can expect should you decide to stop, drop, and open up shop in this surprisingly large area. Keep in mind that most of my observations are coming from someone who has lived in Mid-Levels Central.

36 Pros and Cons of Living in Hong Kong as an Expat

October 9, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Hong Kong, Travel BigBody Leave a Comment

Analyzing the pros and cons of living in Hong Kong can be difficult before you even step foot in the city. Typically, my approach is a bit of a haphazard one where I just show up and hope that it works out. Luckily, that has worked out in almost every single city (and country) that I’ve lived in. It worked out so well in Hong Kong that it is somewhere I’ve called home for the last three years (and six-plus in total) – with no intention of leaving (at least for now).

This isn’t a symmetrical pros and cons of living in Hong Kong type of list, where I list a positive and then counter with a related negative. It’s strictly just a list of pros and cons that have come to the top of my dome, with several thoughts, anecdotes, and tips to accompany each. Each pro and con could be a blog post in itself but for the sake of brevity, I’ll keep it (relatively) digestible.

So, if you’re curious about what I love most about living in the aptly named Fragrant Harbor and what I’m not as enthusiastic about, then here are 36 pros and cons of living in Hong Kong as an expat.

Pierogies, Rabbit Stew, & Stroganoff at Hong Kong’s First Ukrainian Restaurant

October 5, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Food, Hong Kong BigBody Leave a Comment

Pushing 23 years in the Hong Kong food and beverage scene, Ivan the Kozak was (and still is) a much-needed answer to an established (and burgeoning at the same time?) food scene that has always oddly lacked Eastern European fare. Serving up Ukrainian classics like potato and mushroom pierogies, borscht (Ukrainian borscht to emphasize – typically made with pork rather than beef), and even veal casseroles, Ivan the Kozak has remained steadfast in providing Ukrainian warmth and comfort in pleated dough form – which unsurprisingly, is why it is one of my favorite restaurants in all of Hong Kong.

Oh, and there’s vodka. Lots and lots of vodka. Tried and tested by yours truly. That always helps. Except for the three bottles of vodka I drank with my best friend, an elderly Ukrainian woman, and a Russian busboy on my 29th birthday in Vienna, which led to me projectile vomiting all over the Hofburg Palace (I’ve mentioned this in other posts on the site).

How to Access ChatGPT in Hong Kong

October 4, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Hong Kong, Travel BigBody 2 Comments

This is a bit of a different article but it seems apropos given that OpenAI just announced the rollout of voice and image support for ChatGPT-4V, an iteration of the AI-powered large language model (LLM.) that has taken the tech world by storm in the last year. From deploying ChatGPT in personal and professional textual applications such as content creation, translation, and even conversational use, to programmatic tasks, data collection and analysis, and other core business operations, such as coding (albeit limited) and customer service support/chatbots, there’s not much that’s off-the-table when it comes to finding a use-case to meet your specific needs.

But for those in Hong Kong (and more than a handful of other countries which some may argue are under totalitarian control – other peoples’ words, not mine), even accessing this free AND paid service can be prohibitive and is not particularly intuitive. That’s why I’m here to break it down into easy-to-understand steps on how to access ChatGPT in Hong Kong (with visuals).

October 2023 Events That Should Be on Your Radar

October 2, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Hong Kong, Travel BigBody Leave a Comment

I’m a few days late with this as I had a hectic end to the month with client work and then may or may not have found hope at the bottom of a mango cider or seven as I rang in 33. Thanks to a self-prescribed vacation until the 11th, today is the first day the mind, body, and soul have felt unencumbered, (temporarily) unshackled from the banalities of everyday life.

Now that I think of it, isn’t that what Halloween is for once you become an adult? A chance to suspend disbelief and untether from the reality of spreadsheets, water cooler pleasantries, and Tim from HR telling you about how he’s training for his first Hyrox competition.

With a heart full of pumpkin spice and woe, here are some hand-picked events, festivals, restaurants, and things to do this October 2023.

Blazing a Yakiniku Trail in the Kansai Region of Japan

September 30, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Food, Japan BigBody Leave a Comment

Translating to ‘grilled meat’, yakiniku is a favorite Korean-Japanese eating pastime and hybrid that requires an empty stomach and a pair of your finest pair of sweatpants (or other elastic, stretchy garb when you balloon up like Violet Beauregarde after meat gluttony). In Japan, you can expect a happening yakiniku joint on almost every corner – especially in the Kansai Region – a Bermuda Triangle for premium beef bovines that have, in all likelihood, lived a better life than 99% of us (for God’s sake, they massage and feed some of them beer).

But this post isn’t just to celebrate the golden ruling triumvirate of wagyu beef yakiniku that can be found across all corners of the Kansai Region (and Japan), this is a yakiniku epic, consisting of yakiniku joints from far and wide: premium, mid-range, and budget. What I can confidently declare is that if you are eating yakiniku in the Kansai Region, you are in the right place. From high-end Matsusaka wagyu restaurants in Kyoto to bustling offal haunts in the heart of Temma, all the way to all-you-can-eat and drink G.Y.O.B. (grill your own beef) joints in the South of Osaka, the Kansai Region is a yakiniku murderers’ row – and after all, it’s my beefy Wonderwall.

Here is a list of five of my favorite yakiniku restaurants in the Kansai Region – primarily Osaka and Kyoto. I will return to Kobe for a longer stint (hopefully) in 2024 so that I can keep adding to this list.

Does Schnitzel & Schnaps Do Central European-Inspired Fare Justice?

September 25, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Food, Hong Kong BigBody Leave a Comment

I had low expectations for finding quality schnitzel in Hong Kong after several failed attempts over on Kowloon and was quickly losing hope that I would be able to recreate my most memorable and formative Vienna days in fried, frisbee-sized form. At one point, I even considered putting in an offer for a newborn calf at a farm out in the New Territories, purchasing a small plot of grassland on Robinson Road, and picking up a meat tenderizer from Japan Home Centre.

That was until I spotted the borderline-kitsch, Santa’s village of green and gold decor that one day was erected on the ever-bustling second road built in the colony of Hong Kong – Hollywood Road – where life begins and ends for most Mid-Levels 9-8’ers and self-anointed IFC elites.

Skeptical, I donned my finest lederhosen, perched atop the Conduit escalator delta, and sent out a rallying ~~cry~~ yodel for all to hear, eagerly awaiting my Hong Kong Julie Andrewses and David Hasselhoffs to bound towards me, clogs clip-clopping up the stainless steel steps with the might of one thousand Clydesdales, in a jovial hunger. Rosy-cheeked and out of breath, they would bashfully inquire, “Vat is it, Grandpapa?” “Over the river and through the woods, to Schnitzel & Schnaps we go,” I’d triumphantly proclaim, plucking at my suede leather suspenders while rubbing my belly and patting an adolescent von Trapp on the head.

However, that was just a dream and I instead decided to stop in on a Thursday night, sweaty and wearing my third-finest pair of Adidas athletic shorts, after a long day of merciless lashings by ungrateful, entitled clients. I was thankfully accompanied by one of my top herrs, who is about as German as Häagen-Dazs.

Ramen Taniseya: A Gargantuan Cauldron of Iekei Ramen in Shinbashi, Tokyo

September 24, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Food, Japan BigBody Leave a Comment

There aren’t many ramen joints in Japan that made me feel as if I was a true Japanese salaryman 9-5’er more than Ramen Taniseya in Shinbashi, Tokyo. The biggest difference between me and them at the time was that I was dead sober while most patrons were 10 Chuhis/draft Suntory Premiums deep. It was also the first night I met an ex-partner of mine for what was meant to be 10 days of rekindling requited love.

Come to find out in less than 48 hours that the requited love we both hoped for was deeply offset by annoyance, resentment, and incompatibility to the nth degree (I’m still glad we gave it a go). We parted ways shortly after. However, I would not have consumed one of the best bowls of tonkotsu-based ramen (Iekei-style) during my self-imposed exile to Japan if it weren’t for taking the Friday morning Shinkansen from Osaka to Tokyo to meet her.

Here’s why Ramen Taniseya’s gargantuan cauldron of Iekei ramen is a late-night ramen haunt that I will be sure to return to next time in Tokyo.

Should You Stay at the Bishop Lei International House?

September 16, 2023February 19, 2025Asia, Destinations, Hong Kong, Travel BigBody Leave a Comment

If you read any of my other posts on Pale Ale Travel then you know for the first 6 months of 2023, I was located between Saigon, Bangkok, and Osaka (the latter being my new favorite city on earth). Prior to leaving, my apartment lease ended so coming back and getting resituated was a bit of an arduous and overwhelming process.

However, providing refuge in the quest for my reclamation of stability in Hong Kong was the Bishop Lei International House. Located at 4 Robinson Road, in the prestigious Mid-Levels, Bishop Lei is a convenient, affordable, 3-star hotel that is perfect for budget travelers and those wanting to immerse themselves a stone’s throw away from all the action of Hong Kong Island.

Having lived in Hong Kong for six-plus years, all of it on Robinson Road (until recently), I’ve inevitably stayed at the Bishop Lei more than a handful of times – with my most recent stint clocking in at just under one month. While it definitely is not the sexiest or most luxurious hotel by any stretch of the imagination, Bishop Lei does hold its own when it comes to hospitality, amenities (outdoor pool, restaurant, and exercise room), and convenience (I can’t state this enough).

Here’s a little bit about my most recent stay in the Bishop Lei International House and what I particularly enjoyed (and what I didn’t).

P.S. If you couldn’t already tell, the feature image of Hong Kong’s skyline was taken from my room at Bishop Lei.