3 Cafes to Check Out in Portsmouth, NH

I came back to my home state for the last three months (July 2019 to Oct 2019) to take a break from constant travel, work, and stress. It’s been a great feeling. There’s something comforting about working from a cafe in your home-state, knowing after a day of slogging it out online, you get to come home and drink a few beers with your mom or dad (or both). 

Everytime I come back to New Hampshire, there’s always an assortment of new restaurants, breweries, bars, and cafes that have popped up, which makes for an exciting stay. This time was no different. Not only was this trip a great chance to explore several new cafes, restaurants, and breweries, but re-visit some institutions and OG spots which I missed dearly. 

Below are three cafes I recommend checking out in Portsmouth, New Hampshire!

Kaffee Vonsolln: Eis Eis(kaffee) Baby

Credit to Kaffee Vonsolln’s Facebook page.

When I’m home, this is the cafe I always go to work out of. If you’re a freelancer (or a rare digital nomad located in New Hampshire), this is the cafe for you. Not only does Kaffee Vonsolln have great coffee and cakes, but they also boast reliable WiFi and plenty of tables to work at. 

Plus, once you’re finished, just head on over to The Press Room for a beer, and life doesn’t get much better than that. 

Let’s get into the nitty gritty. 

Kaffee Vonsolln is a family owned coffee shop which specializes in German pastries and assorted coffees. And, I have to say, both are absolutely worth coming back for. There’s no shortage of roasts here (all roasted in shop by one of the owners), so don’t worry about finding something you’ll like. 

Maybe I was on a Vietnamese coffee kick, after living in Ho Chi Minh City for the past year, so Kaffee Vonsolln’s Vietnamese coffee became my go-to drink. While not as sweet as the ca phe sua da (or cafe sua for short) in ‘Nam, it carries the same kick, and was key for keeping me awake while sorting through countless emails while home. You can also snag an infamous German Eiskaffee if you’re a sweet-tooth fiend looking to get your fix.  

Pastry-wise, maybe I’m simple, but nothing beats their danishes in my book – which are: flaky, filled with jam, and hearty in size. I also highly recommend grabbing one of their breakfast sandwiches, which is a no-brainer to grab on a biscuit here. 

Finally, it would be remiss not to mention just how friendly Kaffee Vonsolln staff is – knowing my order after my 2nd trip, friendly conversation, and just making you feel like this is “your spot.” 

Website, Address, & Details: https://www.kaffeevonsolln.com/ 

Hours: M-F 7:30AM-6PM, Saturday & Sunday 8AM-6PM

Location: 79 Daniel St, Portsmouth, NH 03801

Caffe Kilim and Market: An Institution

Credit to Caffee Kilim’s Facebook page.

I was first introduced to Caffe Kilim by one of my best friends who I’d consider a coffee aficionado. Plus, he lives right down the street from it, so it has become a popular meeting spot for the two of us over the years. First off, there’s a reason they celebrated their 25th year in business in 2018…well, countless reasons. Let me list a few for you.

• Turkish coffee
• Colorful interior
• Very local
• Latte art and portraits
• You might run into Dropkick Muphy’s lead singer Al Barr

If that’s not a list of reasons to come here, then I’m not sure what is. 

Coming from a heritage based smack dab on the Mediterranean, I’m no stranger to phyllo dough, and the various fillings that accompany their thin, flaky structure. So, you can bet I was thrilled this summer when the brought back their Turkish Borek – a classic Turkish/Middle Eastern pastry made by layering phyllo sheets with spinach and feta cheese. This is a must try when there (if they have it).   

Caffe Kilim also happens to be snack heaven if you’re in the market for whoopie pies, lemon squares, and even caffeinated popcorn. They of course also have every old person’s favorite sweet, Turkish Delight, which is a must-try.

After you’ve pumped some caffeine into your veins, make sure to head on over to the Wrap Shack right next door to pick up what I consider to be the best bang-for-your-buck burrito I’ve ever had. 

Website, Address, & Details: https://www.caffekilim.com/ 

Hours: M-Sat 6:30AM-6PM, Sun 7:30AM-5PM

Location: 163 Islington St, Portsmouth, NH 03801

Elephantine Bakery: Pastries That Will Make You Ele-Faint

Credit to Elephantine Bakery’s Facebook page.

I probably had one of the most wholesome days I’ve had in a long time thanks to Elephantine Bakery, where I posted up at one of their outside tables, grabbed a behemoth of a s’mores bar, and just sat reading for several hours. It was pure bliss.

Positioned at the entrance of the historic brick Commercial Alley (from Penhallow St.), Elephantine is the new kid on the block (having popped up in 2018), and a must-go for anyone wanting to try pastries and breads from someone at the very top of their craft. Co-owner Sherif is a graduate of Europe’s leading culinary institute Ferandi (Paris), and putting traditional bread and pastry making techniques into the mainstream (and back alleys) of Portsmouth. 

As I’m writing this post from Bratislava, Slovakia, having made by way over from Munich (with a month long stop in Vienna along the way), I can confidently assure you that Elephantine Bakery embodies everything a European cafe is (and should be). When you walk in, you’re greeted with stands upon stands of incredible pastries, pizzas, breads, and sandwiches, overwhelming aromas of freshly baked goods, and attentive and friendly staff. 

On Big Body’s most wholesome day ever, I opted for their s’mores bar, which was both gooey and firm at the same time, not overly sweet, and the size of a small brick. Coming from someone who prefers meat to sweets, I’d be hard pressed with a gun to my head to decide between Elephantine’s s’more and a rack of baby back ribs – it’s that good. On later trips, I snagged an almond croissant, which was perfectly flaky, yet moist, and one of their pretzels – which I’d argue go toe to toe with the pretzels I’ve had the pleasure of eating at local German and Viennese gasthauses.  

For its location in Commercial Alley (located between Market Square and Penhallow), it’s surprisingly affordable as well – with ricotta lemon danishes and baklava ringing it at USD $3.50, rosemary focaccia bread at $6, and margherita pizzas at $7. 

I’ll say it. Elephantine Bakery might be the biggest sleeper and hidden gem in all of Portsmouth. 

Website, Address, & Details: https://www.elephantinebakery.com/ 

Hours: M-Sat: 7AM-5PM, Sun 7AM-2PM

Location: 10 Commercial Alley No. 2, Portsmouth, NH 03801

Pale Ale Travel Tip: Baked goods and pastries at Elephantine are just one of the many pros of living in New Hampshire.

Final Thoughts on Portsmouth, New Hampshire Cafes

Having grown up in New Hampshire, it has been incredible seeing its food and cafe scene evolve over the years. Every time I come home, I swear there’s at least 10 to 15 new joints to hang out at or that I need to try. Portsmouth (of course) has become the epicenter of New Hampshire’s food scene, and there’s a reason why, the creativity here is off the charts.

It’s an interesting mix though. While we’ve seen new restaurants and cafes pop up by the dozen, there’s also been a steady erosion of literal institutions which were the stone used to chisel and shape the Portsmouth food and cafe scene. I just hope these cafes that grown to know and love over the years, stand the test of time and don’t fall victim to Portsmouth’s rising rents and harsh winters like many others. 

If you’ve been to Portsmouth, New Hampshire and have a favorite restaurant or cafe, I’d love to hear from you! Let me know if you’ve been to any of the above three cafes and what you ordered – I’m always looking for recommendations!

PS. If you’re in the mood for tacos and margaritas, make sure to check out my post on one of the best taco spots in all of Portsmouth – Barrio. 

Best,

Big Body