Ginza Kagari special ramen

Sometimes You Just Have to Crush a Narita Airport Ramen

If you’re reading this, I’m already in the U.S., home for the holidays to see family, drive the icy backroads that saw me intrepidly eat Jimmy Dean breakfast sandwiches while on the way to Catholic school homeroom, and catch up with old friends. 

All of this is great. However, there’s one glaring gastronomic problem in my small New England state – an egregious lack of authentic and quality Japanese cuisine. 

So, on my route back from Hong Kong, stopping in Tokyo Japan at Narita International Airport for a 4-hour layover, you know I had to get one final Asian cuisine fix before touching down in the land of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, chicken tenders, and lite beer. 

And, with my stomach bloated and gurgling from the previous night’s undigested gyros, I knew I had to go with old faithful – ramen. 

Sometimes, you just have to crush a Narita Airport ramen – especially when that ramen is by Ginza Kagari

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Kimchi cold noodles at Seoul Noodles

Seoul Noodles: a Dish Best Served Cold at Park Chan-wook’s House

The Koreans are taking over Hong Kong and you know what? I ain’t even mad. 

Everywhere you turn, it’s a Korean BBQ spot this, a pocha haunt that, a gaggle of suave-looking men rocking a two-block haircut with bangs and clean, minimalist semiotic getup that makes you realize just how much of a slob you are in comparison. 

And now, a traditional Korean noodle and rice soup shop. 

Even as I sit perched at the Nood Kinwick countertop overlooking the escalators, deep in reflective thought on what exactly the previous weekend’s 5 AM credit card charges at Bar 42 were for (hint: terrible things), I see a group of 40+ Korean tourists being shuffled through SoHo by a stern yet informative guide. 

Recently, a top dawg and I, both donning our finest suits and craving sustenance before a legendary bacchanalian Zuma night brunch, stopped by the 2024-inaugurated Seoul Noodles on Stanley Street (Central) to confirm whether Korean gastronomic excellence only extended to the meat and booze realm in Hong Kong or if noodles were done justice as well.

Well, I’m here to confirm that the Koreanization of Hong Kong is fully underway and it’s goddamn delicious. So, where you gonna be when the sun falls, brother (or sister)? Hopefully slurping down a hearty bowl of soul-warming (Seoul-warming? Zing) Korean noodles with your ride-or-dies. You can bet I’ll be doing the same. 

Here is why ‘Seoul Noodles’ in Hong Kong absolutely needs to be on your eating radar. 

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Dale Candela paella

The Best Paella in Hong Kong is on Lamma Island – Say What!?

As ‘Asia’s World City’, one where roughly 10% of its population is classified as ‘non-Chinese’, you’d be hard-pressed to ever encounter a Spaniard in your daily routine. If one of my OG friends in Hong Kong weren’t a Mallorca native, I wouldn’t even believe they exist, mentally classifying them in the same category as the Chupacabra and Abominable Snowman. 

This means that there is a glaring lack of Spanish restaurants in the city, the few and proud that exist primarily being concentrated in the Sheung Wan/Central biodome of personally and professionally underachieving expats – myself included. 

I’m not entirely sure how it took me so long to write a post about this Spanish restaurant and gem out on the most Bohemian of all Outlying Islands in Hong Kong. 

Mea culpa. Well, it’s here now. 

In the not-too-distant past, several top dawgz and I had a day out on Hong Kong’s third largest yet most-spirited island – one filled with a brisk walk from the Yung Shue Wan Ferry Pier and swim down by that one power station which now makes me glow in the dark at night, capped off with an unsuspectingly authentic and bangin’ paella that would have a Spanish abuela howling in delight.

Here’s your new go-to spot in Hong Kong to snag you a bite of this vibrant, flavor-packed Spanish staple and why it emphatically puts the ‘yay’ in ‘paella’. 

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beef and mushroom pie at The Globe Hong Kong

Craving a British Pie in Hong Kong? I Got You Fam

For being a former British colony, it can be damn near impossible to find a quality British pie in Hong Kong, innit? Did I use ‘innit’ correctly? I have no idea. 

However, there is one longstanding British gastropub that reigns supreme when it comes to nailing the quintessential buttery, flaky, meat-filled British pie, including mandatory mash, beans, mushy peas, and an extra side of nostalgia, that Brits (and non-Brits as well) wistfully long for while looking out the window of their middle-office hellhole – The Globe.  

So, if you’re craving a taste of home, here is what I consider to be the best British pie in Hong Kong. 

Pale Ale Travel Note: While there are about one million reasons that I absolutely adore The Globe and consider it to be one of my favorite beer haunts (and one of the most underrated restaurants in the city), this post is strictly about British pies, so let’s get to the good stuff. 

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Ganso Tsukemen Lobster and BBQ pork tsukemen

Ganso Tsukemen’s Lobster & BBQ Pork Tsukemen is What Dreams Are Made Of

If you know this Big Body, then you know that gun to his head, he is choosing tsukemen, the pungent, savory dipping ramen, over traditional ramen, noodles served in a piping hot broth, any day of the week. 

This is not a slight to the glory that is everything ramen. In fact, tsukemen is classified as ramen so it’s actually a celebration – a celebration of ramen in a lesser consumed form. 

Look at me acting like Gary from 6th grade in his JNCO jeans and Bathing Ape hoodie when he obnoxiously always made sure to differentiate himself by proclaiming to everyone how he only listens to alternative music because mainstream radio edits are for “unoriginal posers.”

The point is, I’m #TeamTsukemen.

I must have latched onto tsukemen as my default ramen amalgam because I’m secretly a masochist who loves fumbling to pick up room temperature noodles with chopsticks followed by splashing its dark shoyu (soy sauce) broth all over the only nice button-down I own. The struggle is real. But that also makes it taste that much sweeter (saltier?). 

Well, in my pursuit of finding the best tsukemen (and ramen) in Hong Kong, this Big Body was pleasantly surprised after stumbling on an unassuming ramen joint in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui for a coveted Thursday night hang with one of his top dawgs. Better yet, it was a spot serving up a noodle dish that appealed to both his gustatorily high-brow and prurient interests – that’s right, a lobster and BBQ pork tsukemen.

Here is why Ganso Tsukemen’s lobster and BBQ pork tsukemen should absolutely be on your ‘Hong Kong ramen radar’. 

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Korean bbq platter at Jin Luo Bao

6 of the Best Korean BBQ Restaurants in Hong Kong For the Meat Gang Gang

Korean BBQ, aka KBBQ, has become somewhat of a storied pastime for the dawgz and me. It’s the de facto Thursday through Saturday night dinner option when we want to get a few drinks in us, put the ole Marks & Spencer belt to the test, and cut loose without losing anywhere close to the amount of dignity we would at Maggie Choo’s trying to parle Français with Parisian models while double-fisting the cheapest bottled beers on the menu. 

It’s also somewhere I find myself going on one-on-one “bro dates,” where we abstain from alcohol and focus on the other two important things for men in this cold, cold world – meat and emotionally opening up to your dawg. Something about several platters of marinated short ribs and pork belly just primes the soul for heartfelt reflection and armchair psychoanalysis of everything from the ages of 5 to 8 that has led to your emotional immaturity at the ripe old age of 34. 

The point is, “I just want to go to the rooftops and scream, ‘I love Korean BBQ!.’” If you caught where that quote draws inspiration, then props to you (hint: Superbad). I can’t think of a single style of cuisine in Hong Kong that delivers on so many fronts – the quality front, the camaraderie front, the booze front, the vibe front, the front front. The latter, I’m unsure of what it means but if it’s a thing then KBBQ delivers. 

Korean BBQ is the adult equivalent of having your very own backyard campfire, minus the mosquitos and having to share a tent with Aidan, something I think most of us have forgotten in this bizarre Never-Never Land big city delusion and pursuit of milk and honey. 

So, without further self-deprecation, here are 6 of the best Korean BBQ restaurants in Hong Kong that you need to add to your eating Rolodex ASAP – all of which I’ve eaten at a dozen times over (each). 

Pale Ale Travel Note: Look, I could spend four paragraphs on each restaurant describing the exact taste of the marinated beef or pork belly and the emotions, physical reverberations, and memories it imparted to my taste buds but that’s not going to get us anywhere. These are the cold hard marinated, flame-grilled facts about each restaurant. I’ve also included my “must-order” items. 

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char siu and roasted duck at Dragon State Kitchen

Enter the Dragon State Kitchen

In Hong Kong’s storied and cutthroat Cantonese BBQ game, one chock-full of glossy, sweet, crackling, roast chunks of meat candy – a term that has also been used to describe the all-male interactive adult revue the ‘Thunder From Down Under’ – there aren’t many who gastronomically shimmy, shake, and gyrate in unison better than the good folk of Dragon State Kitchen.

Having posted up work-wise in Sheung Wan for several years, primarily just ‘Keyboard Cat’ typing away to seem busy and tryin’ to get rich while dyin’ tryin’ the 50 Cent way, Dragon State Kitchen quickly became a staple of my post-work char siu pursuits. My charsuits. 

What’s not to love about fatty candied savory slices of vibrant red pork over a king-size bed of rice and an ice-cold lemon tea to wash it all down, all for HK$60? 

Toss in a wide range of siu mei (Cantonese meats typically roasted on spits over an open fire), service so efficient and brusque that it would make a Waltham Dunkin’ Donuts cashier’s head spin, and a carved-out position less than a 3-minute walk from the Sheung Wan MTR, and it’s obvious why Dragon State Kitchen is continuously a name thrown out there with the legends and likes of Earvin Johnson Jr., Larry Bird, and early 20th-century Purdue University basketball coach Ward Louis “Piggy” Lambert.

Because it makes magic with dem birds and piggies. 

Honestly, I’m surprised by now that I haven’t made a Bruce Lee reference. So, without further ado. It’s time to Enter the Dragon…State Kitchen. 

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multicolor xiaolongbao at Paradise Dynasty

I Ain’t Talkin’ Bout No Empire, I’m Talkin’ Bout a (Paradise) Dynasty

I’ve said it once countless times and’ll say it again, Fridays in Hong Kong are sacred for this Big Body. In such a cold world, real cold world, it’s incumbent on oneself to do what you know makes you happy while minimizing the things that ultimately cause you internal vexation and strife. 

Staring down the face of an unrecognizable man while pensively (yet thoroughly) brushing your teeth come Monday morning isn’t a great feeling, especially knowing you spent the previous several days deep in the throes of indulgent, ephemeral experiences, vices, and relationships. 

At the ripe old age of 34, I’m getting better at choosing real happiness instead of the illusion of real happiness. For me, it starts with “Friday hangs” with my Farjar, aka my Fahza, aka (aka) my father. “Fahza Fridays.” 

Recently, we switched things up from our usual stomping grounds of Tseung Kwan O (TKO) and ventured out to the now elephant graveyard of one of the most iconic and technically demanding airports in the world – Kai Tak Airport. As of 2024, Kai Tak is (essentially) a dusty sandlot of former glory undergoing ambitious governmental redevelopment efforts, taking a similar shape to many previous cultural centers and their not-so-pernicious shedding of Hong Kong’s heritage.

That’s right. It has its own 1.9 million square foot mixed-use commercial development now. Which is really just a fancy word for a ‘mall’. 

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char siu at China Club

Gustatorily Clubbin’ at The China Club With My Fahza

If you’ve followed the blog for any amount of time then you already know that every other week, my father (aka my ‘fahza’ – an Austin Powers reference) and I meet up for lunch, engage in heated discussions about String theory and quantum physics (mainly my lack of understanding about each), and stroll around whatever area we just so happen to be in. 

These afternoons have become sacrosanct and are one of my favorite parts about living in Hong Kong. 

So, in honor of both of our birthdays, his hairline still holding up better than mine, we decided to get ‘Iggy Azalea fancy’ by throwing on our best blazers and heading to The China Club for what I consider to be some of the best Cantonese and Chinese cuisine in the city. 

Here’s a little bit about why The China Club’s retro-chic, old Shanghai and Colonial British-style hybrid restaurant should be on your radar and how to navigate snagging a table at this ‘members-only’ club. 

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Hygge porchetta camembert pizza

I Don’t Know Why More People Aren’t Flocking to This TKO Restaurant

Tsueng Kwan O isn’t exactly known as a gastronomic epicenter of Hong Kong. Until about 10 years ago, I’m 99% sure that it was just a flour mill, Elements shopping mall, several apartment buildings, and a couple of turf fields where chubby expat bankers would gather for Sunday league football to relive their glory days of… Sunday league football back home.

And construction. Always construction. 

However, over the last several years, this former Kuomintang loyalist village knew it needed to begin feeding the hefty boys of ‘Brighton past and not so future’. So it started birthing a gaggle of restaurants (upon restaurants) along the Tseung Kwan O South Waterfront Promenade. Eateries, who, in my humble opinion, put a good chunk in Central, and areas of other great gustatory pomp and circumstance, to shame. 

So, I’m here to put this little pocket of food and beverage excellence on your radar, starting with the restaurant that I consider to be, David Goggins-style, carrying the boats – Hygge.

Who’s gonna carry the boats? Hygge will (and does).

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Fini's Homemade Sausage New Haven-style Pizza

Run, Don’t Walk to Get Yourself Fini’s New Haven-Style Pizza

If you’ve read more than a single post on this blog then you may think that I get jazzed about certain foods or things way too easily. On the contrary, I’m usually quite reserved in my gastronomic celebrations (which look somewhat similar to NFL end zone dances) and am known to be a predictable creature of habit with my everyday munchings. So, it requires more than just well-packaged, Instagrammable hype to turn this Big Body from skeptic to believer. 

It’s not about the panache. It’s about the pa-nosh. I’ll see myself out. 

The thing is with Fini’s Italian American in Hong Kong, there was minimal skepticism to begin with. I’ve been an ardent and vociferous supporter of its SoHo branch for many years and can often be found pensively staring down the bottom of an Asahi draft and bowl of their homemade mac n’ cheese post-Peak hike (walk?). 

So, like Don Ready, an American hero (in the company of legends like Henry David Thoreau and David Lee Roth) who stood up for our right to smoke a cigarette while 30,000 feet up in the air, I already knew Fini’s had “the goods.” But I didn’t know just how much better it could get. Enter Hong Kong food and beverage industry titan Vinny Lauria (and fellow New Hampshirite) and a pizza that, outside of New England, is relatively unknown (albeit it is still nationally lauded by pizza critics) – the New Haven-style pizza

Here’s why you need to get on down to Fini’s Italian American to pick up one of these coal-fired, thin-crust saucers of perfection before another Hong Kong pizza joint attempts to hijack this apizza (pronounced “ah-beets”) glory and puts you off from ever trying it. 

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Flat Iron Burger's Pigalle N Cheese

Flat Iron Burger is the Real Deal: a Concession By Hong Kong’s Nastiest Hater

As I mentioned in my guide breaking down the beefiest, most bodacious burgers in Hong Kong, when Flat Iron Burger came on the scene earlier this year, I wanted to dislike it. I was like Buc Nasty (R.I.P. Charlie Murphy) at The Playa Haters’ Ball in the G.O.A.T.’ed Chappelle’s Show, ‘The Nastiest Hater’ – one of the most diabolical haters this side of the Mississippi. 

I was essentially a Little League father with a dead-end job and a failing marriage, which caused me to become a fanatical supporter of Flat Iron’s predecessor ‘The Butchers Club’. So when I felt my favorite burger in Hong Kong dropped off in quality, it led to me inevitably taking things out on Bryan from accounting and yelling at volunteer teenage umpires who would miss the occasional ball or strike. If you didn’t catch the metaphor, The Butchers Club’s burger was my imaginary Little League son.

Consider this a letter of contrition. Scratch that. Consider this a letter of celebration. As I’ve done so in many facets and instances of life, I came too quick with…judgment. An ‘OPH’ (Original Playa Hater) would have been more cool, calm, and collected, only passing judgment after having tried the burger for himself. Having now frequented Flat Iron Burger five-plus times (with zero intention to stop), it has quickly risen in my power rankings as one of the best burgers in Hong Kong – a heifer harbor prioritizing premium beef and other ingredients, all at an affordable price.

Here’s everything I love about Flat Iron Burger on Elgin Street and why, if you’re in the running for the honor of 2024’s ‘Nastiest Hater’, you need to check yourself before your riggity-wreck yourself. 

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