Ramen-shoyu Sodaisho bowl of shoyu ramen

21 Days of Ramen in Osaka: My Summer Love Story

I genuinely believe Osaka is the single greatest city on earth for eating. “Japan’s Kitchen” as it’s aptly named, even birthed one of my favorite phrases ever, ‘kuidaore’ – literally translating to “Eat until you go broke.” Based on this alone, you know you are in for a hell of a ride the second you step off your respective plane, train, or automobile, and into ANY pocket of the city. Osaka epitomizes this mantra to the nth degree. And, at the heart of it are its estimated 2500-plus ramen shops or roughly 10% of all ramen joints in Japan.

Here are 21 of my favorite ramens that I downed during my three months in Osaka (Arthur Miller would be proud).

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Taiho Ramen-Kiyamachi shoyu kurobuta ramen

Taiho Ramen-Kiyamachi: a Late-Night, Kurobuta Ramen Institution in Kyoto

If you’ve read my guide on 21 days of ramen in Osaka, then you already know that I’m the self-proclaimed Tyrone Biggums of ramen. Except, instead of white shiny rocks of ‘kryptonite’, my addiction is fatty, smoky char siu and shoyu (soy sauce) ramen broths. And I can’t get enough of it. 

I hate to admit it but I wasn’t particularly sold on Kyoto at first. I know. That’s crazy of me. I chalk it up to the fact that I first arrived right during the hectic and overpriced ‘Golden Week’, where families from across Japan flood the streets, shops, and restaurants, and every shrine or temple feels as if you were the 3,000th visitor of the day. I only really warmed up to Kyoto during my second stint there where I was finally able to ease into a comfortable, workable, predictable routine (this Big Body likes predictability). 

But there was one constant that remained through the thick and thin – from my first tumultuous moments getting muscled to the back of the line by a horde of Eastern European tourists at Family Mart to my solo treks up Fushimi Inari at night and serene runs along the Kamogawa River – ‘Taiho Ramen – Kiyamachi’ – a vibrant, late-night hole-in-the-wall ramen shop serving up a rich, thick shoyu-based broth that is packed to the brim with Kagoshima Berkshire char siu (pork). 

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four cheese gnocchi at Dream on Taiga in Osaka

Dream a Little, I’ll Dream on Taiga: Italian Cuisine With Japanese Precision

Dream on, dream on. I dream on. Dream a little, I’ll dream on Taiga… I had been forewarned (whatever the positive of forewarning is though) that Italian-Japanese fusion cuisine was an actual thing in Japan. And that it was all the rage. At first, I was afraid, I was petrified. I was skeptical. I didn’t believe it. 

However, after learning that Japanese-Italian cuisine, commonly referred to as ‘Itameshi’, had a cultural and recent-historical significance behind it, I warmed up to the idea and now I can’t live without it by my side. I’m not exactly sure why I was hesitant about Italian cuisine when I had learned very quickly during my three-month stint in Japan that they are/were renowned for absorbing the best parts of every other cuisine in the world and refining it/turning it into a science. 

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plain takoyaki at Takoyaki Umaiya

Takoyaki Umaiya: 60 Years of Minimalist Octopus Ball Bliss (Sans-Mayo)

I loathe mayonnaise. I’ve said it once, I’ll say it a thousand more times. Mayonnaise is my kryptonite. So you can imagine I was crippled with dejection and bouts of FOMO after landing in Osaka and realizing that most major Kansai-region specialties, namely takoyaki and okonomiyaki, are topped and/or coated in this globby, abominable mixture. 

However, my heart fluttered, my palms began to sweat, and I jumped up and down while shrieking with excitement like Buddy the Elf when he heard that mall-Santa was coming the next day when I learned of ‘Takoyaki Umaiya’ – the second oldest takoyaki shop in Japan (established in 1953), serving up grilled, golden brown octopus balls sans-mayo. 

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horse meat tartare with raw egg yolk on top

Doing the Neigh Neigh at a Horse Meat Restaurant in Osaka

As the dirty South rapper turned murderer ‘Silentó’ of the viral tune and dance craze once sang, “Now watch me whip, whip, watch me nae nae.” As I bounced down the streets of Osaka blaring this banger in my headphones while doing a bit of the stanky leg for good measure, I passed by a restaurant I thought was a popular duck and soba noodle spot. I popped my head into the restaurant, added my name to the registry for the night, and embarked on my daily constitutional (a 5km run around Osaka Castle).

After working up an appetite of one thousand American pygmy shrews (absolutely voracious eaters those little guys are), I returned to the restaurant and took my rightful spot at the bar – overlooking the kitchen. I must have been disoriented from my run and not capable of putting 2+2 together as I saw a Kanji character that I knew all too well. However, it didn’t register and I placed an order for their signature assorted sashimi platter. 

Upon arrival, there was something different about it. I couldn’t quite place it. The texture was something I had never seen before. It was such a pinkish hue that even inspector Jacques Clouseau would struggle to solve the mystery behind its coloring. I suddenly caught a laminated placard with a diagram of a horse out of the corner of my eye and I put it all together. “Now watch me whip, whip, watch me neigh neigh,” I whispered under my breath as readied my chopsticks and took my first bite.

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Cơm Gà Xối Mỡ Su Su yellow sign with green and red lettering

Cơm Gà Xối Mỡ Su Su: Vietnamese Fried Chicken You Didn’t Know You Needed

If you checked out my other article breaking down my foray into the world of mookrata in Bangkok, then you know just how much Thai fried chicken caught me by surprise. Well, that was until I experienced the glorious world of Vietnamese waterfall fried chicken. This is the real deal (and the true definition of a hole-in-the-wall spot). 

And there aren’t many better spots in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam for fried chicken than at Cơm Gà Xối Mỡ Su Su in District 1. Add on some of their addictive garlic soy sauce, infused with chicken drippings (I seriously don’t know if I’ve ever had a better sauce in my life), chase each bite with a spoonful of orange fried rice, rinse and repeat, and you’re in for an absolute fowlin’ good time.

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Georgian khachapuri at Avra in Bangkok

The Meat & Cheese Georgian Triumvirate of Bangkok: Khachapuri, Khinkali, & Tolma

“I’ll take cuisines that you would never see in Bangkok, Thailand for $100, Alex.” “This popular dish features unleavened bread formed into a boat shape and filled in its center with cheese, eggs, and sometimes meat.” “What is Georgian food, Alex?” “That’s correct. In last place, we have Big Body who has just correctly answered his first question of the day and now has the board.”

I can thank ‘Avra’, a popular Georgian and Greek restaurant-hybrid in Bangkok for giving me this knowledge that keeps me from getting shut out in my imaginary Jeopardy! Debut. Even in my dreams, I’m the worst contestant on the show. 

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Khao Tom Pla Plaeng Nam shop front in Bangkok's Chinatown

A Scrumptious Seafood Congee in Bangkok’s Buzzing Chinatown

I went on several eating marathons in Bangkok. But I offset them by walking everywhere. My most arduous and longest journey of the one-month stint I did in Bangkok had to be walking from Sukhumvit 11 out to Chinatown. I was a man on a mission. Other than getting to Chinatown in one piece and without having soaked through my t-shirt (I failed), I had no real plans or idea of what to do (or where to go) when I got there. 

However, like a light bulb turning on (insert whatever cartoon resonates with you where a lightbulb flashes on over a character’s head when they get an idea) I knew I found what I was looking for after passing by a small outdoor food stall with cafeteria style foldable tables and three silver-haired Thai men hovering over bowls of fresh squid. 

Enter ‘Khao Tom Pla Plaeng Nam’ – a fresh seafood Teochew-style congee spot near Yaowarat in Bangkok’s bustling Chinatown. This place is a congee institution. And I found out why.

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Everyday Mookrata meat platter

All Day Mookrata, Everyday Mookrata: A Korean BBQ & Chinese Hotpot Love Story

I can’t believe that I had lived 32 years of my life never having heard of mookrata (also known as ‘mu kratha’). I love Korean BBQ. I love Chinese hotpot. I love Japanese motsunabe. Mix them all together and you have an unrivaled Frankenstein’s monster of flavor (and fun) that the villagers aren’t chasing out of the village with pitchforks.

Instead, they’re cozying up to this gastronomic monster, giving it the love that Victor never did.

So, you can bet I was in for a huge surprise after being recommended a popular mookrata haunt not far from the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok – Everyday Moo Krata & Cafe. “Like a virgin, grilling for the very first time.” Plus, I went with one of my best roll-dawgs which is how mookrata should be enjoyed. 

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uni and salmon roe over rice

Sushi Misaki-Nobu: an Omakase Experience For the Books

I would have never guessed that Bangkok just happened to be home to some of the best Japanese restaurants in the world. I guess that one is on me considering it is a frontrunner in the Mr. and/or Mrs. Universe competition for best gastronomic cities in the world. Cue Sushi Misaki-Nobu, a powerhouse Japanese omakase restaurant (and Michelin Guide recommendation) located in the Saladaeng area serving up Edomae-sushi – raw fish, cooked rice, and seasoned red vinegar (as opposed to traditional rice vinegar).

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yellow soft shell crab curry from Northeast restaurant in Bangkok

Northeast – a Bustling Bangkok Haunt Serving Up a Killer Crab Curry

Located across the street from the south center of Lumpini Park (and a 3-minute walk from the Silom MRT), where monitor lizards roam freely and cats sleep in the middle of the road with zero cares in the world, sits ‘Northeast’, a no-nonsense, bustling, Thai restaurant serving up familiar (and unfamiliar) ‘Northern-style’ dishes including – a killer soft-shell crab curry. 

As I’ve mentioned in several other posts, Bangkok makes a more than formidable bid as the gastronomic capital of Asia (at least in my books), and ‘Northeast’ is the staccato on the end note of this culinary symphony. 

Let’s take a look at what makes this popular haunt for locals and tourists alike a must-go when you are in Bangkok and the feast that single-handedly forced me into bed by 8 PM. 

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Yoshinoya Otemae outside storefront in Osaka

Gyudon Life: Why I’m a Yoshinoya Ride or Die For Life

I really can’t express just how happy Yoshinoya in Japan makes me but I’ll try.

Maybe it is because I have fond memories of patronizing this fast food gyudon (beef and rice bowl) chain my first Chinese New Year in Beijing when it was the only thing open (that and KFC). Maybe it is because it is there for me while working odd hours with clients in the U.S., leaving me a rather rushed eating window between 11 PM and 12 AM some nights. Maybe it is because they just make a high-quality, bang-for-your-buck, hearty meal that is delivered with enthusiastic service and care. 

I am a Yoshinoya ride or die. For life. My last three months living in Osaka, Japan have solidified this ten times over. I have eaten at Yoshinoya, at minimum, bi-weekly (sometimes tri-weekly) for the last three months. I know it well and it will always have a special place in my heart and belly.  

If you are a Sukiya or Matsuya (competing gyudon chains in Japan), consider this an open invitation for hand-to-hand combat. 

If you are unfamiliar with exactly what Yoshinoya is or what you can expect when walking through the doors here or are curious exactly what makes this fast food chain one of my most frequented (possibly most frequented) spots in all of Japan – read on!

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