My Favorite Gasthaus in Vienna: Steman on Otto-Bauer-Gasse

Next to Japanese izakayas, there isn’t a better place on Earth to be from the hours for 5PM to 11PM than a gasthaus. European beer that flows as freely as the Danube, an intimate and authentic look into how the locals live, and of course, hearty traditional dishes such as goulash, spaetzle, wienerschnitzel, that are sure to leave you bursting at the seams – gasthauses are a safe haven for the 9 to 5’ers that recognize life is best lived with your close friends and an alcoholic drink in hand.  

Cue Steman, located smack dab in the middle of Mariahilf on Otto-Bauer-Gasse – my all time-favorite gasthaus in Vienna, Austria.  

But, what exactly makes Steman worth adding to your eating itinerary when traveling to Vienna? Let’s take a look. 

What the Heck is a Gasthaus?

First, let’s begin with a quick primer on what a gasthaus is. A gasthaus (“guest house”) is a German-style tavern (or inn) that is typically family owned (this isn’t always the case in the year 2020) and common throughout Germany, Switzerland, Austria, and other surrounding countries.

While gasthauses originally began as local inns with rooms for rent (in addition to a tavern and restaurant), they seem to mainly act as restaurants and taverns in modern day European cities (I’m sure some still offer lodging as well). 

Now, onto Steman. 

A Bit About Steman Gastwirtschaft

Located at the intersection of Otto-Bauer-Gasse and Konigsegggasse (and within arm’s reach of Cafe Jelinek) and sporting a green sign with white lettering reading “Steman Gastwirtschaft,” Steman is an astonishingly unassuming corner gasthaus that one might not think twice about when walking by. However, that would be a huge mistake.

Steman is a gasthaus of layers, one that the untrained eye might not recognize at first. It sports a tap room (the front room when entering) that seats 35 persons, a main dining area (which feels a tad more upscale) that seats 70, and an outdoor pub garden (for when the weather permits) for 40. 

Upon entering, patrons are greeted with a traditional yellow and brown wood-paneling, high ceilings, and leprechaun green bar, taking you back to the gasthauses of old and setting the scene for a hearty, traditional, intimate meal. The tap room spills into a more formal (and humble) dining room, where on any given day you’ll find Vienna’s post-work crowd swarming for hot meals and drinks (lots of drinks). 

I recommend calling ahead to book a table, as Steman can fill up fast. Or, consider heading to Steman for lunch in the early afternoon, as every single time I’ve gone for my goulash fix during the day, there was plenty of seating.  

Now, onto the main event.

Pro Tip: I first stumbled upon Steman because I was (a) living on Otto-Bauer-Gasse for quite some time during my first stint in Vienna, and (b) it is located directly across from one of my favorite cafes to work from (and eat muesli at), Cafe Jelinek. Make sure to check out my guest to the best cafes in Vienna (which includes Cafe Jelinek on the list!). 

The Goulash That Launched 1000 Ships

First, I want to preface that I’ve worked my way through countless items on the menu during both of my month-long stays in Vienna, and have nothing but praise for every single dish. However, the goulash and liver dumpling soup were my favorites by far. Fin.

I think I already warned you. I’m an awful photographer.

I’m ashamed to admit that I never had tried liver dumpling soup (Leberknödelsuppe) before stepping foot in Vienna. It’s eerily reminiscent of lighter beef broth-based soups my mother would cook for me growing up, so I imagine that is a big reason why I’m such a fan. 

To emphasize, it is an extremely light and mild soup, as even the liver dumplings don’t carry much weight to them. While you might be thinking back to your first time ever trying liver, where it was undoubtedly bold, strong, and unapologetic, this is not the case with liver dumpling soup.

The actual liver dumplings (typically made with calf’s liver) are not particularly dense. They are what I would refer to as “meatball-light,” off-set by a mixture of breadcrumbs, onions, egg, and garlic. For me, Steman’s liver dumpling soup makes for the ultimate “warm up soup” before a hearty goulash, wienerschnitzel, or spaetzle.  

Thar she blows!

Steman’s goulash is emphatically the best goulash I have ever eaten. The venison goulash I had in Bratislava? Phenomenal, but no dice. The Hungarian goulash I scoffed down with a buddy in Budapest? Close, but no cigar. Steman’s goulash served with gherkins, an over-easy egg, boiled potatoes, and small kraken-esque-looking sausages on the side? Simply, the best. 

The beef in Steman’s goulash is extremely tender. So tender that you can toss your knife right out the door (don’t actually do that). The sauce is not overly thick or rich, and coats the meat and potatoes perfectly. The over-easy egg on top adds an extra layer of flavor and texture to the goulash, which reminds me of some of my favorite breakfast hamburgers that I opt for when hungover at a diner. 

Now, you may be saying, “Well, how much goulash have you eaten in your life?” A lot. But I do recognize and unfortunately concede that I will never be able to try all of the goulash in the world, so take my recommendation with a tiny grain of salt. 

Other Delectable Dishes on Steman’s Menu

As mentioned above, it’s not always about the goulash. Steman boasts comfort food for every person, no matter your mood. Some of my other favorites at Steman include the spaetzle (homemade dumplings with cheese, bacon, and onions), fried escalope (pork) with potato salad), and tafelspitz (boiled beef with vegetables and roast potatoes). 

Not to cheat on my beloved goulash, but tafelspitz is a close second for my favorite Austrian dish. Tafelspitz is simple and not particularly sophisticated by any means (which is funny since it was originally a dish for the ruling class), but it produces such a combination of creaminess (thanks to the accompanying sour cream/horseradish, saltiness, and tenderness that is hard to argue against. 

The spaetzle (what I commonly refer to as “adult macaroni and cheese”) also deserves high praise. Steman does two spaetzle variations – one with bacon and onions, the other with scrambled eggs and salad. This is comfort food at its finest folks. Salty, cheesy, handmade noodles that will enable you to continue deep into the night with the booze – that’s what Steman does. 

You can find Steman’s complete menu over at: http://www.steman.at/speisekarte/. The menu is all in German, however you can find a picture of the English side of the menu over here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g190454-d941590-i193177855-Steman-Vienna.html. 

Don’t worry, Steman boasts both German and English for menus in the restaurant! 

Final Thoughts on Steman Gastwirtschaft

Steman became an absolute staple and favorite haunt of mine during my two combined months spent in Vienna, Austria. I usually found myself slugging beers by myself over a bowl of afternoon goulash twice (on average) per week, so I do think I had a pretty good feel for all it had to offer. 

I know for a fact that the next time I’m back in Vienna, Steman will be the first restaurant/gasthaus that I stop at for my welcome back meal. I suggest you mix it into your travel plans as well (and then check out Cafe Jelinek across the street). 

I would love to hear if you’ve been to Steman and what your favorite dish is, so please do let me know in the comments!

Best and be well,

Big Body

Steman Location & Details

Website, Address, & Details: http://www.steman.at 

When: Monday – Saturday 11AM – 12AM

Location: Austria, Otto-Bauer-Gasse 7, 1060 Wien, Austria