The Deep-Fried Beef Cutlet Dilemma: Is Gyukatsu Motomura Worth the Line?

Having posted up in Osaka, Japan for the last two months (with one more to go), a popular restaurant my friends raved about and kept recommending was ‘Gyukatsu Motomura’ – a deep-fried beef cutlet (similar to Tonkatsu) haunt where patrons cook their rare beef over a hot stone and slather it in soy sauce or wasabi. All in the name of the perfect bite. 

After unsuccessfully being turned away the night before for showing up too late (this was on me – not them), I decided to circle back the next night to their Umeda branch, located in ‘Lucua Dining’ on the 10th floor of the North Gate Building of Osaka Station City. This time I arrived at 8 PM, dressed in my finest Yakult Swallows baseball jersey, to see if the hype was worth it. 

The Beef Pre-Game

One time I altered the extremely catchy Megan Trainor song ‘All About That Bass’ to ‘All About That Beef’ when ordering bibimbap at a New Hampshire brunch spot and was told by the waitress to “Never do that again.” If anything, that admonishment has made me sing my bizarre, beefed-up version even more (mostly in my head when walking down the street). It is now the de facto anthem of my life. 

I am all about that beef. So when I learned of a popular gyukatsu (fried beef cutlet) restaurant that combines two of my favorite things; beef and fried food (yes, I am American), I knew I had to conduct some “in-the-field research.” Plus, I’m already an ardent supporter of tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlets), so a gastronomic dance with its bovine cousin was long overdue. 

The Beef Shop Deets

“No matter what I do, all I think about is beef.” – Nelly & Kelly Rowland in ‘Dilemma’

• Website: https://www.gyukatsu-motomura.com/en/ 
• Address:〒530-0001 Osaka, Kita Ward, Umeda, 3 Chome−1−3 LUCUA 10Ｆ
  • Hours: 11 AM – 11 PM (Lucua Branch)

First, let’s get the administrative stuff out of the way. There are numerous ‘Gyukatsu Motormuras’ in Japan – with two in Osaka (one in Umeda, one in Namba), and several scattered across Tokyo and Yokohama. There’s even one in Fukuoka. When you Google ‘gyukatsu’, the name ‘Gyukatsu Motomura’ is almost synonymous with this dish. 

Several Reddit and Google searches seemed to also affirm that when it comes to top-notch gyukatsu in Japan, Motomura is your go-to – please do let me know in the comments if there are other gyukatsu restaurants you recommend! 

As I’ve spent the last two months living right near Temmabashi Station in Osaka, I chose to make the arduous and disorienting 13-minute journey to Umeda (I think anyone will tell you that Higashi Umeda and Osaka Stations are overwhelmingly difficult to navigate) to patronize the Gyukatsu Motomura Lucua branch.

Do everything in your power to get over to Osaka Station and find the North Gate Building. Once there, follow any sign you see for ‘Lucua’ and ride the escalators or elevator to the 10th floor. Once on the 10th floor, Gyukatsu Motomura will be shop number 37. Simple enough, right? Whatever time you think you need to get yourself situated in Osaka Station/Higashi Umeda, add 10 to 20 minutes extra. 

Look for the white lettering ‘牛かつ もと村’ over a shop (the first character is one you should acquaint yourself with as it means ‘beef’) and you are home. 

Depending on the time and day, the line may be reminiscent of those at the DMV. However, instead of an eye exam that you fake your way through by trying to memorize the letters on the wall behind the DMV clerk or being told that you have to come back at a later date with two accepted forms of identification, you will be presented with a menu by one of the attentive and friendly staff members and subsequently, a glorious looking plate of fried, breaded wagyu. 

‘Cause You Know I’m All About That Beef, Bout That Beef, No Chicken…

While the line can take a considerable amount of time, I do have to give credit to the supply chain operation of the restaurant for taking your order while you wait (hence being presented with a menu). Once you finally do make your way inside, your order is served to you within several minutes – along with a hot stone board to cook it over.

Three Gyukatsu Options

Gyukatsu Motomura keeps it simple, offering up three fried beef cutlet options (or sets) to choose from: 

1. Single beef cutlet set (130g);
2. 1.5 beef cutlet set (195g);
3. Double beef cutlet set (260g).

I’m sure you can guess which one I chose. In my opinion, the price point on each option is fantastic – with the single beef cutlet coming in at just under JP¥2000 and the double beef cutlet set clocking in at just over JP¥3000. I selected a soft drink combo meal for my double beef cutlet set and the total came out to JP¥3360. Oh, and you get free refills of rice.

Do keep in mind that the prices may vary and be different so take this as a general range. You can also opt for the drink/no drink option which will affect the total costs (marginally).

The Beef & The Beautiful

Now, onto the beef…Gyukatsu Motomura uses the coveted wagyu beef for their cutlets. However, it’s important to know that the texture of the cutlet(s) is not as fibrous as a traditional piece of steak. This may be due to the tenderizing of the meat (aka the breaking down of the connective tissues). 

Each set comes with small plates of wasabi, soy sauce, and horseradish/onion sauce (I think this is what it was – it was a green sauce almost similar to a pico de gallo, sans tomatoes). The table is also well-equipped with rock salt. 

Your golden, breadcrumb-crusted slab of wagyu will arrive ‘rare’, which you can then cook or sear to your liking on your personal hot stone board. Motomura’s website recommends cooking the beef for no longer than 60 seconds between both sides. However, I’m very pro ‘rare’ and ‘medium rare’, so ate about half of the pieces without cooking them on the hot stone or placing them on there for five to ten seconds each side.

I found myself experiencing a wide range of flavors based on the beef accelerators I chose for each bite. For example, pairing the beef cutlet with rock salt brought out a ‘steak-ier’ taste. This may have been due to a slightly more reminiscent texture of a steak or the fact that salt draws out the flavor more. On the other hand, pairing the beef with wasabi, led to a richer, more fragrant experience, with the slight creaminess yielding a slightly more croquette-like bite. 

Some bites melted in the mouth. Others made me feel as if I was eating a unique spin on steak. Having the option to alternate flavor profiles and bites made me feel like Gyukatsu Motomura (and Enterprise Rent-a-Car) gave me the tools to be my own boss (‘Step Brothers’ reference). 

The Beef-couttrements

I think I just made this word up and can’t say it particularly showcases any cogent thinking on my part. The beef accoutrements, aka the ‘beef-couttrements’ as I call them, include barley rice, shredded cabbage (with an accompanying sesame dressing), miso soup, potato salad, and several other small sides (Japanese yam, cod roe, and mochi). 

Something about shredded cabbage and fried meat works perfectly – the cool crunch from the cabbage offsets the rich, fried exterior (and interior) of the beef. The savory, slightly nutty taste of the sesame dressing adds that extra ‘je ne sais quoi’ and depth to the flavors of the meal.

Diners are entitled to a free refill of the barley rice. I am slightly embarrassed to admit that I don’t know if I noticed anything distinct about barley rice compared to traditional white rice. I am also a bit of an iconoclast and eat the rice separately from the meat, sometimes putting sesame dressing or soy sauce on it. I had a Japanese buddy comment that it seemed strange that I typically eat

The other beef-couttrements – I don’t have any particularly strong feelings towards them other than that they round out the meal nicely.  

Is Gyukatsu Motomura Worth It?

This is a loaded question and really depends on the person. Was this a great meal that left me barely able to walk and glad I tried it? Absolutely. Would I wait over an hour in line again? Probably not. This isn’t a negative review or negative endorsement by any means as everyone’s waiting threshold for good food is different. 

If I was in the neighborhood again (which I frequently am) and saw there was no line (or a minimal line), I would not hesitate to pop in for a cutlet or two.

What I would recommend is that you swing on over to eat at Gyukatsu Motomura during their “off hours” or “off days” (or even “off seasons”). This would typically be mid-week, right before they open or mid-afternoon, and not during any major Japanese holidays (ex. I’m looking at you ‘Golden Week’). 

Don’t make the same mistake I did, thinking that because their Google My Business profile lists their hours from 11 AM to 11 PM, you can mosey on up right at 9 PM or 10 PM and get served. You’ll get served more like when Omarian and Elgin are betrayed by their crew member ‘Sonny’ in the movie “You Got Served” when he steals their moves and tells them “…tonight you suckers got served.”

Pale Ale Travel Eating Tip: If you showed up at Gyukatsu Motomura a little too late or are just in Lucua Dining and looking for a large, quality bowl of flavorful ramen with cabbage and char siu pork, head on over to ‘Dotombori Kamukura Lucua Osaka’ (also on the 10th floor and right next to Gyukatsu Motomura). Make sure to also check out my guide breaking down 21 of the best ramen shops in Osaka.

As noted above, the first night I attempted to go was mid-week at 9 PM. By then, they were already turning away customers and had placed the dreaded ‘We’re finished for the day’ sign at the front of the winding queue. Luckily, Lucua Dining is packed to the gills with food options, so even if you show up and they are sold out for the day, you won’t go hungry. 

I would love to hear if you’ve been to Gyukatsu Motomura (any branch) and what your experience was. Let me know in the comments or by reaching out via email (info@palealetravel.com). 

Eat well everyone,

Big Body