Power of the Pivovar: 2 Breweries to Eat & Drink at in Bratislava
A generic name for “brewery” in several Slavic languages, a pivovar is so much more than that (in my book). Not only are pivovars incredible spots to drink your fill of Bratislava’s finest lagers (and countless other beers) but they are also great spots to load up on traditional Slovakian dishes and experience a lively pub-atmosphere.
Below are three of my favorite pivovars to eat and drink at in Bratislava, Slovakia!
Mestiansky Pivovar
Courtesy of Mestiansky Pivovar’s Facebook page.
Now, you might not know this about me, but Big Body enjoys playing poker and occasionally gambling. And that is exactly how I found Mestiansky Pivovar – after a long, drunken night of gambling and playing poker at Banco Casino (which is right next door). Through a delirious Borovicka (a Slovakian gin-esque alcohol) induced haze, I struck up a conversation with a fellow poker player at the table, who let me know that the best ribs in all of Bratislava were right next door at Mestiansky Pivovar.
Nearly out of commission the next day (after getting back at 7AM), I was able to rally for dinner, and figured I might as well put that claim to the test by heading to Mestiansky Pivovar for myself. Well, it did not disappoint, and subsequently became my go-to pivovar to eat and drink out for my one month-plus stint in Bratislava. Here’s why…
Da Beers
Drawing inspiration from the Burgess Brewery, a once staple in the Bratislava beer and gastronomical scene, Mestiansky Pivovar is the present day amalgamation – brewing high quality pilsners and serving up hearty, traditional Slovakian favorites. When you walk in, Mestiansky Pivovar almost feels like you are entering a medieval tavern thanks to their wooden tabletops and bar, high arches with stone pillars, and burly bearded bartenders. If only the beers were served out of a silver goblet, it would complete the experience for me. There’s no shortage of beers to choose from at Mestiansky, and you can bet your bottom dollar I worked my way through. Yes, I even sampled their non-alcoholic shandy.
Mestiansky’s Bratislavsky Leziak is the house lager that is a must-try. It is unfiltered, meaning it still contains yeast cells. While unfiltered beers have a cloudier look than filtered, the general consensus is that there is not a huge impact on flavor. If you are feeling especially adventurous during your night at Mestiansky, I recommend going with their 1L Bratislavsky Leziak. Taste-wise, the aroma is fruity (with a hint of honey) and hoppy, with a tad bit of dryness on the finish. There also are some grassy notes in the taste, which makes for an interesting mix and finish!
The Grub: Much More Than Pub-Grub
Food-wise, these are my top recommendations:
- Homemade grilled sausage with mustard and creamed horseradish with homemade bread
- Smoked beef tongue with mustard and creamed horseradish with homemade bread
- Spare ribs with pickled vegetables and chili and garlic dressing
- Gnocchi with bryndza and crispy bacon topping (halusky)
- The daily strudel with hot black cherries and vanilla ice cream
For me, the biggest highlights for food (which all of it was great) were the homemade grilled sausage and smoked beef tongue. The homemade grilled sausage had a perfect crackle to its exterior, while the beef tongue paired extremely well with the creamy horseradish and bread. Make sure not to spread too much horseradish or mustard on it, as it might cloak the beef tongue flavor too much. And, while the ribs weren’t the best ribs I’ve ever had, they still could go toe-to-toe with most U.S. restaurants that don’t specifically specialize in American BBQ. The serving-size is absolutely mammoth. The sauce had a sweet tang, yet was not overly sweet, and the meat fell further down the spectrum of “fall off the bone” (which is my favorite).
Finally, you can never go wrong with the Slovakian halusky (potato dumplings/gnocchi with bacon), as it is essentially adult macaroni and cheese.
Oh, and there’s a huge beer garden at the Dunajska location to soak in the rays during the summer!
Website, Address, & Details: http://www.mestianskypivovar.sk/
- When: Monday-Thursday 11AM – 12AM, Friday 11AM – 1AM, Saturday 11AM – 12AM, Sunday 11AM – 10PM
- Location: There are two Mestiansky Pivovar locations (this article is written about the Drevena location near Michael’s Gate).
Starosloviensky Pivovar
Courtesy of Starosloviensky Pivovar’s Facebook page.
Hidden on Vysoka Street, just off the bustling Obchodna Shopping Street, Starosloviensky Pivovar is a must-try brewery for those looking for a more local feel in a pivovar. It has less of a restaurant vibe and more of a “let’s post up and drink beers here until we can’t see vibe,” which I am 100% on board with. Don’t worry, it can also just be a casual place to post up, drink a beer, and indulge in a hearty Slovakian favorite.
Halusky: Adult Macaroni & Cheese
I’m of no authority to back this claim up, but Starosloviensky Pivovar touts themselves as the only restaurant in the western Slovak Republic that offers a 100% sheep bryndza (cheese). While you might not think this is anything to write home about, let me tell you – it is. Having explored and tasted as many halusky dishes available to me during my time in Bratislava, including a homemade rendition with a local friend, Starosloviensky Pivovar is right at the top (next to my local friend’s dish) for the best halusky I ate in Slovakia. The gnocchi is not overly soft, the cheese is extremely creamy, and the bacon provides a perfect salty crunch you are looking for in each bite.
I’m honestly torn on whether I love Slovakian halusky or the Slovakian pierogi more, and Starosloviensky Pivovar is the cause of that. Their Slovakian pierogies are akin to what I’ve come to love and hold true to my heart out in Asia – the dumpling. The structural integrity of the dough filled with potato, with a dollop of sour cream and crunch of bacon all make for the perfect bite. If you are able to make more than one trip to Starosloviensky, it is imperative that you try both and let me know (or be like me and order both in the same sitting).
Spruce Up Your Beer at Starosloviensky
Now, onto the beer (I did it in reverse here)! Starosloviensky has 7 taps (if I remember correctly) with their most popular being their unfiltered Pressburg. They have everything from classic lagers, to IPAs, to American ales. It is worth noting that nearly all of their beers are brewed in-house.
The first night I went to Starosloviensky Pivovar, I went with a buddy under the agreement that we’d just have a few beers. Well, that escalated quickly, as the Pressburgs went down just too well. It is a bit fruity, with a decent sized white head and a tad bitter of a finish. One notable thing about the Pressburg beer at Starosloviensky is that there is a version that is flavored with spruce, for those seeking out a more “piney” taste to their beer.
If you are there in the summer, do keep an eye out for open seats in their outdoor patio!
Website, Address, & Details: http://www.staroslovienskypivovar.sk/
- When: M-W 2PM – 11:30PM, Thursday 3PM – 11:30PM, Friday & Saturday 2PM – 2AM, Closed Sunday
- Location: Vysoká 4260/15, 811 06 Bratislava, Slovakia
Final Thoughts on Bratislava Pivovars
Bratislava is an absolute heaven for beer lovers – selection is vast, quality is top-notch, and prices are cheap (a draft beer will run you anywhere from about USD $0.80 to $2.00).
On top of that, Slovakians are some of the most welcoming people I’ve had the pleasure of meeting. Even attempting “hello” (Dobrý deň) or “thank you” (Ďakujem) in Slovak goes a long way, so I recommend nailing down a few key words before you go. So, go forth, be merry, and drink your fill. You can’t go wrong in Bratislava.
If you are looking for several cafes and coworking spaces to work out of, make sure to check out my article on four laptop friendly spots in Bratislava to work from!
Best,
-Big Body
Big Body is a voracious lov…eater, a cowardly fighter, and a self-proclaimed curry goat BBQ-eating champion (don’t forget the donkey milk) who likes Stoicism, baseball, and writing in the third person. Having worked for himself for the last 7 years, he isn’t particularly successful but he does still drink ice-cold Sapporo draft beers with the best of them and knows his way around a Dai Pai Dong or two. He is based in Hong Kong but you can still find him in Saigon, Osaka, and Vienna for extended periods.
It appears as if Starosloviensky has closed down now and now there is a place called “Mesuge Craft Beer Pub” in the same place instead.
Hey there Jonathan!
Thank you for the message/note on this – I’m actually heading back to Vienna for the summer and will spend some time in Bratislava again so I’ll make sure to update this. It looks like they kept the same Google My Business profile and just changed the name, curious to see if the fare/drink are all similar. Cheers and hope you had a great time in Bratislava. -Big Body