10 Pros and Cons of Living in Mid-Levels, Hong Kong

When moving to Hong Kong, it can be difficult to know exactly what district or neighborhood will suit your lifestyle requirements before you even arrive. The city comprises countless districts, neighborhoods, and pockets, all of which boast their own benefits and drawbacks (and charm) – some you might not believe exist in the same city due to the stark contrast to one another.

Maybe you are more of a beach bum, looking to start your day off with Vitamin D and a morning surf, then Sai Kung might be your little slice of heaven. Or maybe you want a raucous, vibrant maze of both new and old Hong Kong (with fantastic street food), then Mongkok or Jordan might be right up your alley. Or maybe you’re in need of a quiet, residential neighborhood that is only a stone’s throw away from your office and the hustle and bustle of the city. Well, then Mid-Levels might be your place. 

As someone who has lived in Mid-Levels for all six-plus years that I’ve existed in Hong Kong (I’m just a creature of habit), here are 10 pros and cons to paint a better picture of what you can expect should you decide to stop, drop, and open up shop in this surprisingly large area. Keep in mind that most of my observations are coming from someone who has lived in Mid-Levels Central.

Pale Ale Travel Tip: If you are considering moving to Hong Kong (or Mid-Levels) and have any specific questions about what you can expect or want me to expand on any of these pros and cons, don’t hesitate to reach out to me via my contact form or email!

Top Pros of Living in Mid-Levels	Top Cons of Living in Mid-Levels
Unparalleled convenience	Lack of quality and affordable restaurants
Direct access to Victoria Peak and Bowen Road for hiking	Dog poo everywhere
A quiet refuge from the noise in Central and SoHo	It’s easy to fall into the expat bubble

Pro: It’s Surprisingly Huge

When most people hear that you live in ‘Mid-Levels’, they immediately think that you live right off the Central-Mid-Levels escalators, which run from Central up to Conduit or Old Peak Road. Mid-Levels is surprisingly extensive and is broken into four distinct areas:

1. Mid-Levels West,
2. Mid-Levels Central,
3. Mid-Levels East, and 
4. Mid-Levels North.

It stretches from Bonham Road (right near the Sai Ying Pun MTR) and Lung Fu Shan Country Park as far east as Mount Butler and Braemar Hill, with footings in Admiralty and Wan Chai (including Jardine’s Lookout). Maybe this is an oversimplification but whatever is ‘halfway’ up ‘The Peak’ from Sai Ying Pun to Mount Butler and Quarry Bay. However, when discussing ‘Mid-Levels’ in a conversation, it’s generally understood to mean ‘Mid-Levels Central’ (and sometimes Mid-Levels West).

So, why is this a pro? Because there isn’t a one-size-fits-all type of dynamic to Mid-Levels. If you want to be “right in the thick of it all” and able to pop down to SoHo or IFC in minutes, you can situate yourself more centrally. If you prefer quaint artsy cafes and a mix of traditional and modern restaurants (with quiet back streets), then Bonham Road and Western Mid-Levels might do the trick. Or if you want a larger estate (and have some extra dough) with comprehensive facilities (ex. Pool, tennis courts, etc…) and quiet space to raise a family, then further up the mountain or along Bowen Road could be the right play.

Con: Astronomical Rents (Some of the Highest in Hong Kong)

By all accounts, Mid-Levels is considered an ‘affluent’ residential district and set of neighborhoods as it commands some of the highest rental prices in Hong Kong – even setting the record for the most expensive apartment sold back in 2009 (clocking in at just over US$9,000 per square foot). 

The “prestige” of Mid-Levels is antiquated but stems from the Peak District Reservation Ordinance of 1904’s discriminatory zoning practices, where real estate atop Victoria Peak was primarily reserved for British colonists. This led to a conflation of altitude and wealth. Mid-Levels was the second rung on this wealth and status ladder where colonials who didn’t have the skrill for The Peak and wealthy Chinese (who were precluded from living atop The Peak) would live. 

Okay.com places the median rental price for Mid-Levels Central at HK$70,000 per month (US$9,000). However, I always take these numbers with a grain of salt. But even if you knock off tens of thousands, the point is that rent prices are still astronomical compared to other districts or neighborhoods in Hong Kong. That’s not to say there aren’t some great deals in the area (I moved slightly down from Robinson and was able to significantly reduce my rent).

And, you typically aren’t getting a luxury penthouse or three-story villa for those prices. Most of the buildings in Mid-Levels are quite old and aren’t always the most spacious. I have friends in the area paying HK$20,000 for 350-square-foot apartments. Convenience really seems to be the major factor that drives these sky-high rents.

Pale Ale Travel Tip: For reference, I used to live in a 512-square-foot, one-bedroom apartment in Mid-Levels and paid HK$21,000 per month (US$2,700). You can read about it further in my article ‘How Much Does It Cost to Rent an Apartment in Mid-Levels?’.

Pro: Convenience, Convenience, Convenience

One thing that always strikes me odd about some of the conversations I have with friends or acquaintances is when Mid-Levels is brought up, they will oftentimes make a comment like, “I don’t know how you could live there, it’s just not convenient.” Au contraire, Stephanie. Au contraire. I’d argue that Mid-Levels is in fact one of the most convenient locations to live in all of Hong Kong – you just have to know how to navigate it. 

It’s true, the closest MTR station to me is a 15-minute walk down to Central or a 20-minute walk to Admiralty. However, I can carve down Hong Kong Island on the 23 or 40 bus, 56 green minibus (to North Point), or even a taxi to almost anywhere I need to get to (or transfer via) on the Island. For reference, I can be in TST in less than 20 minutes if all goes to plan. 

The Central-Mid-Levels Escalator will carry my sturdy frame down to IFC in 15 minutes flat (from 6 AM to 10 AM) and back up to my abode anytime after that (ending at 12 AM). Walking – I’m at my office in Sheung Wan in less than 15 minutes (and that often includes stopping for a coffee). Should I fancy an Aperol at one of my favorite spots in SoHo (Stazione Novella) or be compelled to seek out others with the ‘mark of the beast’ in Lan Kwai Fong, I’m able to pop down in minutes.

Con: The Escalator Climb (Post-12 AM)

Even still, I forget that the Central-Mid Levels escalator closes at 12 AM on the dot. As a single, beer-loving man in his early 30s, who has definitely ordered USD 30 worth of McDonald’s at 4 AM, there’s been more than a handful of times (we are talking about the hands of 50-plus octopuses) that I’ve made the 2 AM trek up the no-longer running escalators. 

Once you move to Mid-Levels, you’ll naively convince yourself that “It’s not that bad”, “It’s good exercise,” or “I deserve this punishment after a night out.” That’s until you’re standing outside of Kinwick Centre in SoHo, staring up at what looks like K2’s North Ridge – and you’re not Nirmal Purja or Reinhold Messner. You’re far from both. You’re just a slightly chubby expat with chafed thighs who sits in a windowless room all day eating Pret, researching the cheapest bottomless brunches by the Pirata Group and knock-off Patek Philippe Nautiluses. 

Back in 2012, I had a big night out and “late-nighted” at a friend’s apartment in SoHo. To cap off the night, I picked up a constitutional kebab from Ebeenezer’s (aka ‘Neezey’s’) and somehow ended up covered (face to button down) in its technicolor tri-sauce concoction (mint, garlic, and chili). It was still about 29 degrees Celsius (85 Fahrenheit) and I had a long ascent up the resting escalators to Robinson Road, so I popped my shirt off. I marched stumbled up the escalator steps, belting Kanye’s ‘We Don’t Care’ while swinging my plastic bag with a half-wrapped kebab (to eat in bed of course). 

As I reached Mosque Street, I looked up from making sure that my feet remembered to move one in front of the other, and was startled by a woman crying on the steps by herself. My mouth attempted to form words to acknowledge the absurdity of the situation – me shirtless with green and red sauce on my face and chest mumbling ‘Drug dealin’ just to get byyyyyyyy…’ – but all that came out was a sort of bark-gurgle hybrid. The woman looked up in both terror and disgust, as if she’d just seen Hong Kong’s own human centipede, and sprinted off. 

At that moment, I knew how Frankenstein’s Monster felt when he saved a young girl from the river and was subsequently shot by her father – like a monster.

Pro: Numerous Coffee Shops

Mid-Levels will surprise you with the number of quaint, quality coffee shops that populate the area. Granted, most cafes in Mid-Levels are concentrated right off the escalators but still rank as some of my favorite cafes in all of Hong Kong. 

From laptop-friendly cafes like ‘Blend & Grind’, with al fresco seating (a poor man’s Santorini vibe – in the best way possible) to the bold, strong cold brew and specialty coffee shop ‘Double Black’ on Mosque Street, to the Instagram-favorite Halfway Coffee serving up freshly brewed coffee in their signature antique porcelain cups hidden on Rednaxela Terrace (Hint: It’s Alexander backward), there’s a morning Joe spot for everyone (except for the people I speak about in the next con).

This might be trite but one of my favorite places to grab a morning coffee and soak in the morning rays on a Saturday is at the Feather & Bone on Mosque. The rooftop is available for paying customers and is the perfect spot to grab a double espresso or brunch (the Butcher’s Burrito all day) and catch up with your dawgz or dawgettes. 

Pale Ale Travel Tip: If you’re in the market for a great coffee shop and spot to post up with your laptop, make sure to read my post breaking down my favorite laptop-friendly cafes in Hong Kong. 

Con: There’s Dog Poop Everywhere

I don’t think I’ve found anywhere else in Hong Kong that is as flush with dog poop on the ground as in Mid-Levels. I attribute this to the fact that most of these residents shouldn’t actually be dog owners as they divert all responsibility of taking care of their animals to everyone but themselves. There’s also an (unjustified) air of entitlement that exists amongst Mid-Levels dwellers, where picking up after their animal “isn’t their duty.” 

I’ve seen a lot of half-assed attempts at cleaning up excrement by people you can tell have rarely (if ever) had to take accountability for their actions or behavior in their lives. Walking down the Castle Steps is like playing that popular kid’s game ‘The Floor is Lava’, except instead of “liquid hot magma” (said in the voice of Dr. Evil) it’s canine Kibbles ‘n Bits patties. 

If you’re a dog owner who lives in Mid-Levels and doesn’t clean up after your pet (or half-asses it), do better. You know what? Also, take a lap around the block while you’re at it. 

Pro: Access to Victoria Peak & Bowen Road

A nice little picture from High West which can easily be accessed from Victoria Peak Garden.

I start nearly every Friday out with a hike up to The Peak and sometimes High West (if I’m feeling frisky). For me, you can’t put a price on this. 

It’s a favorite pastime of mine and one of my main ways of destressing after a hectic work week or before what is often a full-on weekend. I also wouldn’t be fully transparent if I omitted that it’s also the perfect excuse for me to eat Burger King – the only one in Hong Kong is atop The Peak. I’m always in culinary awe at how they achieve those flame-grilled marks on the burger with just a quick zap in the microwave. 

I can’t mention Burger King and then NOT include a picture of the G.O.A.T.ed order – a double Whopper (no mayo) with fries, six piece chicken nugget, and a Coke Zero.

The fact that I can be in my apartment doing…whatever I do in my apartment…one minute and overlooking my favorite skyline in the world in under 35 minutes (if I really hustle) is a testament to this city’s convenience and multitudes.  

The Bowen Road Fitness Trail and loop, a shaded 3 km to 7 km walking trail with views of the city, is another nature staple I enjoy mixing into my weekly routine (when I don’t feel like slugging out with the bankers at Pure) and definite ‘pro’ of living in the area. 

Pale Ale Travel Note: I have an idea for a film. It’s basically ‘The Last of the Mohicans’ but made with the remaining boars that haven’t been merked by our brave, honorable Hong Kong Police force. The kicker is also having Daniel Day-Lewis play the lead boar in it and he has to save a little baby boar that is caught in the middle of pro-democracy protests.

Con: Overpriced Food & Not Many Affordable Restaurants

I’d love to hear anyone’s thoughts who takes a different position on this but generally, there is a lack of quality, affordable restaurants in Mid-Levels. Yes, there are some gems that I’m a regular patron of (ex. Florence Trippa, Hooked, and Papa Gomes). But overall, I would confidently declare that this is not the area to get your money’s worth when it comes to quality restaurants that are reasonably priced. 

If you live in Mid-Levels, you’ll frequently see most residents (me included) with a takeaway bag or box from a restaurant in Central (or elsewhere), blankly staring off into the distance as the escalator slowly delivers them to temporary salvation until the next day’s banalities and stresses roundhouse kick them in the face.

If you’ve already read my post on the major pros and cons of living in Hong Kong then you already know I’m not the biggest fan of the race to the bottom for quality (and race to the top in price) in the dueling supermarket chain market so I generally prefer to pick up my groceries at Marks & Spencer in SoHo or at Mercato Gourmet (if it’s a Conor McGregor red panty night – which is 99.9% of the time just me by myself).

Pale Ale Travel Tip: If you have a hankering for ramen, a food that I actually find to be reasonably priced in Hong Kong, make sure to check out my post breaking down some of my top ramen restaurants in Central, Hong Kong.

Pro: A Quiet Place (Sans Emily Blunt)

While most residential buildings in Mid-Levels are spaced closely together, there’s a tranquility and stillness that can still be found. I would preface this by emphasizing that I don’t truly believe that tranquility begins until you cross Caine Road, as my new apartment on Caine can get quite noisy at points. However, once you make your way up the escalators, turn down a little alley or terrace, or settle into your high-rise on Robinson or Conduit (or even further up the hill), it can be eerily quiet (in a good way).

Since most of the action takes place just hundreds of meters down below, Mid-Levels is a noise refuge of sorts. In a way, you do get to “have your cake and eat it too,” able to pop down to the crowded, lively streets of SoHo and Central without a second thought but also able to extricate yourself once it reaches an unbearable or unsustainable level (and sleep like a baby).

Con: It Can Be a Bubble (If You Let It)

Mid-Levels really can be this sort of bizarre, Puritanical expat enclave that overlooks the rest of the Island, if you let it. Some like that. I feel myself slipping into that trap sometimes and am lucky to have more than a handful of muchachos who challenge me to avoid falling complacent and into that Groundhog Day-esque cycle. 

I’ve had more than a handful of buddies who came over for a year or two, lived in Mid-Levels and worked in IFC, and rarely saw anything but the metallic steps of the escalator and inside of Cassio during their short stint in the city – that’s the bubble I’m referring to.

Mid-Levels almost becomes too comfortable, where you convince yourself that it’s far more of a hassle than it is to make the trip out to [insert place] in Hong Kong. Every single time I make my way down to Repulse Bay or out to Sai Kung, I can’t help but comment to a friend, “I don’t get why we don’t do this more.” Then I think back to the Pizza Hut I ordered from the branch that is a less than 6-minute walk from me while I spent the entire day on my couch, only to pop out to 7-Eleven for a Coke Zero and Snickers.

Is It Worth It Living in Mid-Levels?

For me, absolutely. For others, maybe not so much. Mid-Levels is just one of countless areas (spread across 18 districts) in Hong Kong that makes for a great place to live and make this city unique. The convenience, convenience, and well…convenience align perfectly with the phase of my life that I’m currently in so I don’t see myself living anywhere else for now. Yes, the rent prices are less than ideal but there is a certain nostalgia for me here and the spot I feel most “at home.” 

However, that could all change depending on if I ever settle down and want to raise a family. But let’s cross that imaginary bridge when the time comes. 

If you live in Hong Kong, I’d love to hear from you about where you live, what you love about it, and what isn’t your favorite. Or, if you are considering moving to Hong Kong and have additional questions about moving to the city and getting settled, feel free to comment below or email me at info@palealetravel.com.  

Stay well,

Big Body