The Best Rooftop Shisha Lounge in Hong Kong: Mono Lab
I can’t lie. I’m a sucker for the occasional shisha (or as I grew up calling it, hookah). If my father is reading this, so be it. For someone who has significantly cut back on drinking, shisha has provided a fantastic sober, social alternative that is a semi-regular occasion (not THAT often though) with some of my best friends here in Hong Kong.
And, there is one place that I can thank that has been a major driver behind it – Mono Lab. In a city where rooftop bars, cafes, and shisha lounges are few and far between, Mono Lab reigns supreme. This is my go-to rooftop shisha lounge in Hong Kong.
A place where I can post up on one of their outdoor couches with a strong double espresso, dig into a cheesecake or cheesy bagzel (a hybrid mix of both a pretzel and bagel), and puff away at a creative, properly packed shisha (that smokes like a dream).
Disclaimer – yes, smoking shisha (or anything for that matter) is not great for you. However, that is where my medical disclaimers end. This is a blog geared towards restaurants, cafes, bars, and activities of all kinds, and I would be remiss not to include something that has been an important conduit for spending time with friends and cultivating relationships.
The Vibe: A Rooftop Haven For Coffee & Shisha Enthusiasts
Website, Address, & Details: https://www.instagram.com/monolab.hk/ (cafe), https://www.instagram.com/mono.shisha/ (shisha)
Location: 7th Floor, 31-33 Hollywood Rd, Central
Hands down, a major reason why Mono Lab is my go-to shisha lounge and cafe in Hong Kong is because of the staff. Hans, Zach, and company, all know hospitality and work extremely hard. They are incredibly knowledgeable and passionate about what they do, and it shows in their craft (which I do truly believe is unparalleled in the Hong Kong shisha world) and interactions with patrons and friends.
A good vibe is made greater just by the people you surround yourself with. And this vibe is pretty damn great.
There are two vibe and seating components to Mono Lab. Indoors, which is facing the coffee bar and fixed with ample booth and table seating (often my preferred spot on an overly humid or hot day), and outdoors, an oasis adorned with sturdy couches (with pillows) and wooden tables and chairs, sheltered by silver parasols. Both seating locations befitting of whatever mood you are in.
If you can snag a couch, do it. Some of my best memories of summer 2021 were posting up on a couch on a Friday afternoon with one of my best friends, shooting the breeze, attempting to blow smoke rings, and reading.
Also, I have to give a huge shoutout to their second anniversary party (and Zach on the grill) which was an absolute blast and one of the best environments for any sort of social interaction I’ve encountered in Hong Kong. Steak, lamb, chicken wings, free-flow beer and coffee, and six shishas center stage all with varying flavors, creating the ultimate social melting pot. This is how social interactions should be in any city.
The Shisha: Flavors That Will Always Keep You on Your Toes
I always thought Danny Brown’s ‘Grown Up’ would resonate with me at some point but alas, it hasn’t. “Used to have baby lungs, choking when I hit it, nowadays lace a whole seven in a sitting.” Granted that was about the different type of leaf that people love to smoke but it still rings true for me with shisha smoke. That’s why I love Mono Lab.
Hans, Zach, and crew at Mono Lab mix up shisha on a harshness and intensity scale of 1 to 10, with 10 potentially making you take a nap with how potent it is and 1 being the perfect fit for ‘baby’s first shisha’ (there is actually a toy out there named this, it is insane). I settle in somewhere at 5 or 6. This is an easily smokable, not overly harsh, smooth draw (thanks to their coconut charcoal that lasts longer than wood or rice charcoals, with less ash) that still keeps me in business to run my daily 5km.
One fantastic added value facet of Mono is that there is no set menu of shisha combinations to order from. I’m not a massive fan of going to a shisha bar or lounge and having to choose from a list of ‘apple mint’, ‘lemon mint’, and ‘grape mint’. Simply tell whoever your packer at Mono is what your desired flavor profile (ex. Citrusy or creamy), the intensity and harshness, and leave it in their hands to come back with one creative, smooth concoction.
Feeling dark leaf? They’ve got it. Feeling blonde leaf? They’ve got it. Something in between? They’ve got that too.
For high-quality shisha, Mono is one of the best deals in town, with a signature shisha costing just HK$380. Change heads come in at a reasonable $200 extra. If you are feeling adventurous for your shisha head, assorted fruits (and the occasional gourd) may be ordered one day in advance for $480 to $780 (depending on the type of fruit you choose – ex. Grapefruit or watermelon).
In general, I opt for citrusy and refreshing, as I’m chronically sweating and hot in Hong Kong. However, at their second anniversary, I did try a chocolate-flavored shisha that may be a new go-to for me. I am also a big fan of their paan flavor, which boasts a distinctive herb-y-ness and syrup sweetness.
The Coffee, Libations, & Baked Goods
The coffee at Mono Lab is strong, the teas are comforting and plentiful, and the cold brew is underrated and drinkable. While Mono Lab thrives in the shisha game, they also know exactly what they are doing with a cup of Joe. You can find anything from smooth vegetal matcha lattes and velvety flat whites to refreshing espresso tonics and homemade lemonades (one of my favorite non-alcoholic drinks in Hong Kong), to comforting Earl Gray and Oolong teas.
One of the best additions that I could ever ask for was when Mono Lab installed a tap for beer. Prior to this, they didn’t have a liquor license and I found myself occasionally itching for that liquid courage before a night out. That problem has been remedied ten times over. And, the tap boasts beers (‘Crazy Rich Lulupins’ IPA and ‘Earth People’ lager) from one of my favorite breweries in all of Hong Kong, Carbon Brews.
Mono Lab also offers assorted white and red wines by the glass (or bottle), caipirinhas (Anthony Bourdain’s favorite), and sturdy gin and tonics.
Food-wise, think comfort food with a twist. Their cheesy bagzel (the hybrid bagel and pretzel) is carb heaven and an interwoven explosion of salty, crispy, chewy, and garlicky. Mono gets creative with daily cheesecake offerings as well, with personal past favorites being their tofu cheesecake and burnt caramel cheesecake. You really can’t go wrong here.
Just make sure to check the daily menu board when entering to have your imagination propelled into a baked, somewhat bizarre (in the best way possible) dreamland.
A Ride or Die Mono Lab Patron & Friend For Life
I’m officially a Mono-nite (I just made that term up and will take full credit for it) until I die. In such a fast-paced, sometimes cold, and (often) volatile city, to have a refuge and regular stomping ground with spectacular people who take their craft seriously is a blessing.
Mono Lab will always have a place in my heart and I know my next years in Hong Kong will see many more trips here (probably this weekend). If you are looking for a shisha lounge, cafe, and wine haunt, look no further – you’re home.
If you have any favorite shisha lounges or bars in Hong Kong that you think I should check out, I would love to hear from you in the comments or via email.
Be grand everyone,
Big Body
Big Body is a voracious lov…eater, a cowardly fighter, and a self-proclaimed curry goat BBQ-eating champion (don’t forget the donkey milk) who likes Stoicism, baseball, and writing in the third person. Having worked for himself for the last 7 years, he isn’t particularly successful but he does still drink ice-cold Sapporo draft beers with the best of them and knows his way around a Dai Pai Dong or two. He is based in Hong Kong but you can still find him in Saigon, Osaka, and Vienna for extended periods.