Hong Kong skyline over Victoria Harbour from The Peak

October 2023 Events That Should Be on Your Radar

I’m a few days late with this as I had a hectic end to the month with client work and then may or may not have found hope at the bottom of a mango cider or seven as I rang in 33. Thanks to a self-prescribed vacation until the 11th, today is the first day the mind, body, and soul have felt unencumbered, (temporarily) unshackled from the banalities of everyday life. 

Now that I think of it, isn’t that what Halloween is for once you become an adult? A chance to suspend disbelief and untether from the reality of spreadsheets, water cooler pleasantries, and Tim from HR telling you about how he’s training for his first Hyrox competition.

With a heart full of pumpkin spice and woe, here are some hand-picked events, festivals, restaurants, and things to do this October 2023. 

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three cuts of Matsusaka wagyu at 松阪牛 焼肉のGANSAN 先斗町別邸

Blazing a Yakiniku Trail in the Kansai Region of Japan

Translating to ‘grilled meat’, yakiniku is a favorite Korean-Japanese eating pastime and hybrid that requires an empty stomach and a pair of your finest pair of sweatpants (or other elastic, stretchy garb when you balloon up like Violet Beauregarde after meat gluttony). In Japan, you can expect a happening yakiniku joint on almost every corner – especially in the Kansai Region – a Bermuda Triangle for premium beef bovines that have, in all likelihood, lived a better life than 99% of us (for God’s sake, they massage and feed some of them beer). 

But this post isn’t just to celebrate the golden ruling triumvirate of wagyu beef yakiniku that can be found across all corners of the Kansai Region (and Japan), this is a yakiniku epic, consisting of yakiniku joints from far and wide: premium, mid-range, and budget. What I can confidently declare is that if you are eating yakiniku in the Kansai Region, you are in the right place. From high-end Matsusaka wagyu restaurants in Kyoto to bustling offal haunts in the heart of Temma, all the way to all-you-can-eat and drink G.Y.O.B. (grill your own beef) joints in the South of Osaka, the Kansai Region is a yakiniku murderers’ row – and after all, it’s my beefy Wonderwall. 

Here is a list of five of my favorite yakiniku restaurants in the Kansai Region – primarily Osaka and Kyoto. I will return to Kobe for a longer stint (hopefully) in 2024 so that I can keep adding to this list.

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Schnitzel & Schnapps black and green store front

Does Schnitzel & Schnaps Do Central European-Inspired Fare Justice?

I had low expectations for finding quality schnitzel in Hong Kong after several failed attempts over on Kowloon and was quickly losing hope that I would be able to recreate my most memorable and formative Vienna days in fried, frisbee-sized form. At one point, I even considered putting in an offer for a newborn calf at a farm out in the New Territories, purchasing a small plot of grassland on Robinson Road, and picking up a meat tenderizer from Japan Home Centre.

That was until I spotted the borderline-kitsch, Santa’s village of green and gold decor that one day was erected on the ever-bustling second road built in the colony of Hong Kong –  Hollywood Road – where life begins and ends for most Mid-Levels 9-8’ers and self-anointed IFC elites. 

Skeptical, I donned my finest lederhosen, perched atop the Conduit escalator delta, and sent out a rallying cry yodel for all to hear, eagerly awaiting my Hong Kong Julie Andrewses and David Hasselhoffs to bound towards me, clogs clip-clopping up the stainless steel steps with the might of one thousand Clydesdales, in a jovial hunger. Rosy-cheeked and out of breath, they would bashfully inquire, “Vat is it, Grandpapa?” “Over the river and through the woods, to Schnitzel & Schnaps we go,” I’d triumphantly proclaim, plucking at my suede leather suspenders while rubbing my belly and patting an adolescent von Trapp on the head. 

However, that was just a dream and I instead decided to stop in on a Thursday night, sweaty and wearing my third-finest pair of Adidas athletic shorts, after a long day of merciless lashings by ungrateful, entitled clients. I was thankfully accompanied by one of my top herrs, who is about as German as Häagen-Dazs. 

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Ramen Taniseya iekei ramen

Ramen Taniseya: A Gargantuan Cauldron of Iekei Ramen in Shinbashi, Tokyo

There aren’t many ramen joints in Japan that made me feel as if I was a true Japanese salaryman 9-5’er more than Ramen Taniseya in Shinbashi, Tokyo. The biggest difference between me and them at the time was that I was dead sober while most patrons were 10 Chuhis/draft Suntory Premiums deep. It was also the first night I met an ex-partner of mine for what was meant to be 10 days of rekindling requited love. 

Come to find out in less than 48 hours that the requited love we both hoped for was deeply offset by annoyance, resentment, and incompatibility to the nth degree (I’m still glad we gave it a go). We parted ways shortly after. However, I would not have consumed one of the best bowls of tonkotsu-based ramen (Iekei-style) during my self-imposed exile to Japan if it weren’t for taking the Friday morning Shinkansen from Osaka to Tokyo to meet her. 

Here’s why Ramen Taniseya’s gargantuan cauldron of Iekei ramen is a late-night ramen haunt that I will be sure to return to next time in Tokyo.

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Hong Kong skyline view from Bishop Lei International House

Should You Stay at the Bishop Lei International House?

If you read any of my other posts on Pale Ale Travel then you know for the first 6 months of 2023, I was located between Saigon, Bangkok, and Osaka (the latter being my new favorite city on earth). Prior to leaving, my apartment lease ended so coming back and getting resituated was a bit of an arduous and overwhelming process. 

However, providing refuge in the quest for my reclamation of stability in Hong Kong was the Bishop Lei International House. Located at 4 Robinson Road, in the prestigious Mid-Levels, Bishop Lei is a convenient, affordable, 3-star hotel that is perfect for budget travelers and those wanting to immerse themselves a stone’s throw away from all the action of Hong Kong Island.

Having lived in Hong Kong for six-plus years, all of it on Robinson Road (until recently), I’ve inevitably stayed at the Bishop Lei more than a handful of times – with my most recent stint clocking in at just under one month. While it definitely is not the sexiest or most luxurious hotel by any stretch of the imagination, Bishop Lei does hold its own when it comes to hospitality, amenities (outdoor pool, restaurant, and exercise room), and convenience (I can’t state this enough). 

Here’s a little bit about my most recent stay in the Bishop Lei International House and what I particularly enjoyed (and what I didn’t). 

P.S. If you couldn’t already tell, the feature image of Hong Kong’s skyline was taken from my room at Bishop Lei.

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Pan fried gyoza at Jessie Wine & Gyoza in Osaka

Running the Gyoza Gauntlet in Osaka at 3 of My Favorite Dumpling Restaurants

Dumplings are a top three food for me…ever. I think it all stems from one Chinese New Year back in Beijing where I was invited over to a local buddy’s home to celebrate with just him and his mother. His mother apparently “took it light on us” and only prepared 150 dumplings – this isn’t hyperbole. Over the course of ten hours, we drank (Maotai for days), karaoked, and most importantly, devoured these little pillows of heaven. By the end, there wasn’t a single dumpling in sight. 

However, devouring 150, thick Chinese dumplings in one sitting will take a toll on your waistline and I swore to myself from that day forward, that if I ate 150 dumplings again, they would need to be lighter. So you can imagine how close I was to breaking down in hysterics like a 1940s couple at a train station after the husband returns from war after my first official gyoza in Japan (I had eaten gyozas thousands of times outside of Japan but it hits differently when in the gyoza motherland). 

I knew my dream to eat 150 dumplings once again was no longer a dream – it was a reality at the tips of my fingers (chopsticks?). Leading this gyoza gastronomic revolution were three gyoza-specific restaurants in Osaka.

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cold udon at Kirinya Honmachihonten in Osaka

Kirinya Honmachihonten: the Inspiration Behind the Greatest Udon Noodle Commercial of All Time

Picture this. A family of five sitting around their dining room table after a long day of work and school. The oldest, texting. The father, stoic in demeanor, like Kevin Arnold’s father in The Wonder Years. The mother, probing her youngest about the school day. It’s dimly lit. A slight tapping of the piano can be heard as an incandescent bulb casts an ever-so-slight golden glow over five ceramic bowls of thick white noodles. A voice, smoother than Siri, begins… ‘I don…’ The pregnant pause ends. ‘You don’. A piano begins to crescendo, joined in triumph by a thundering timpani. ‘We don’, ‘Everybody don’. The climax cuts to dead silence as the screen fades to black. ‘Udon’.

That’s my million billion-dollar commercial that I am yet to direct for the entirety of udon (commissioned by the Japanese government) – not even on behalf of one specific brand, restaurant, style, or region. But on behalf of the existence of udon as a noodle. This is also what plays in my twisted brain every single time I sit down for a bowl of udon. 

So you can imagine the horror and utter confusion of customers and staff at every single udon joint I ate at in Japan as eyes closed, cuing in imaginary actors and musicians like a deranged maestro, I directed this preposterous commercial. My magnum opus, you ask? Performed at 11:30 AM on the most unexpected of days, a Friday at Kirinya Honmachihonten.

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Nishin Soba in Kyoto

Damn I Hate Being Soba: a Buckwheat Ballad in the Kansai Region

Damn I hate being sober soba, I’m a smoker, Fredo a drinker, Tadoe off molly water.” – Chicago Drill rapper Chief Keef 

I don’t actually hate soba. I love it. However, one of my biggest regrets during my time in Japan, other than waking up naked in the hallway of my hotel in Tokyo (I wish I was making that up), was that I didn’t eat more soba. A favorite YouTube channel of mine, ‘Japan Eat’, declared soba his favorite noodle dish of them all – and I feel as though I’ve let him down.

I’m not entirely sure why I was so soba-deficient during my three months in Osaka (and various other parts of Japan) but it’s something I need to improve on for my second stint (I’m aiming for 2024). The soba that I did eat was divine. I’m traditionally more of a cold noodle guy (love me my tsukemen), so soba noodles are right up my alley. I fully admit I dropped the ball on this one. Mea culpa. 

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Hiroshima tsukemen

Hiroshima-Style Tsukemen That Will Put Some Hair on Your Chest

If you’ve read my post (and failed screenplay – thanks a lot M. Night) on the iconic, bustling food-theme park ‘Okonomimura’ in Hiroshima, then you already know just how memorable a time I had in this city. 

From the most flavor-packed and savory oyakodon I’ve ever tasted (in the basement of a shopping mall) to sweet, battered, thick corn dogs at the Hiroshima Carp baseball stadium (the most raucous fans in all of Japanese baseball), to a thick, nutty and mince meat-topped dan dan noodles served while macabrely watching the Titanic, I did not have a single bad meal in my week-plus in the “City of Water.” 

Rounding out this eating and baseball-fueled trip of mine was a popular ramen staple, unique to this resilient and historical city, Hiroshima-style tsukemen – cold boiled noodles topped with shredded cabbage, cucumber, and green onions, served with a dry chili oil (and chili pepper) and vinegar dipping broth, garnished with sesame seeds. This can be one spicy papacito (depending on the level of heat you choose).

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&Island coffee Osaka

5 Laptop-Friendly Cafes & Workspaces in Osaka

In Japan, people typically go into a cafe or restaurant, accomplish what they came there to do, and then leave. Unlike other countries I’ve lived in, including the U.S., where political campaign telemarketers, Mary Kay salespeople, and Bluetooth guy (everyone knows Bluetooth guy) post up at cafes for hours on end (it’s accepted practice though), Japanese (for the most part) just aren’t simply sitting there nursing a single 99-cent iced coffee over 6 hours while furiously typing away at their groundbreaking (failed) avant-garde screenplays like the coffee shop “revolutionaries” of the West. 

This meant that during my time in Osaka, I only found a handful of cafes or workspaces where it was accepted (or felt like it was accepted) to post up with a laptop, book, or Elizabeth Warren-constituent email list to cold call. However, the cafes (and workspace) that I did find and work from were absolute gems and important refuges for me on days when I mentally needed to get out of my apartment (and hotel room) and wanted to be surrounded by others on the same page.

Here are five of my favorite laptop-friendly cafes and workspaces in Osaka.

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Ichiryu Manbai Kyoto tsukemen

3 Ramen Restaurants in Kyoto That Make My Heart Sing

I mentioned in a previous post that I had written Kyoto off relatively early in my travels – a mistake and miscalculation I fully acknowledge at present day. I was wrong about Kyoto. Please forgive me (me speaking to Kyoto the city). I think it was because I first arrived during the jam-packed Golden Week, in the midst of a rough work week, unable to find a stable workspace to post up, and deep in the throes of worry about falling out with my newly established routine (and life) in Osaka. 

But then I found you, Taiho Ramen (I sound like Joe from the Netflix series ‘You’). If you’ve already checked out my post on Taiho Ramen – Kiyamachi, then you know that this is my absolute favorite ramen I encountered in all of Japan (not just the Kansai region). However, there were two other ramen restaurants in Kyoto that caught my attention in my combined three-plus weeks here.

Here are three ramen spots in Kyoto (including Taiho) that made my heart sing and have me excited about my second stint in the Kansai region in 2024. 

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Hong Kong skyline from Victoria Peak

What’s New in Hong Kong: September 2023 Events You Should Check Out

September is hands down my favorite month of the year. Maybe it’s because I’m a Libra and both my old man and I were born in September. Maybe it’s because I have fond memories of peacocking around my home state in my best flannel while sipping apple cider. Or maybe it’s because the killer Hong Kong heat and humidity begin gradually abating (I’m kidding, that’s not until November). 

Regardless, I love this month and you should too. Don’t “wake me up when September ends,” because there’s a lot of life to be lived this fall.

Here are some hand-picked events, festivals, restaurants, and spots to check out this September 2023 in Hong Kong.

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