char siu and roasted duck at Dragon State Kitchen

Enter the Dragon State Kitchen

In Hong Kong’s storied and cutthroat Cantonese BBQ game, one chock-full of glossy, sweet, crackling, roast chunks of meat candy – a term that has also been used to describe the all-male interactive adult revue the ‘Thunder From Down Under’ – there aren’t many who gastronomically shimmy, shake, and gyrate in unison better than the good folk of Dragon State Kitchen.

Having posted up work-wise in Sheung Wan for several years, primarily just ‘Keyboard Cat’ typing away to seem busy and tryin’ to get rich while dyin’ tryin’ the 50 Cent way, Dragon State Kitchen quickly became a staple of my post-work char siu pursuits. My charsuits. 

What’s not to love about fatty candied savory slices of vibrant red pork over a king-size bed of rice and an ice-cold lemon tea to wash it all down, all for HK$60? 

Toss in a wide range of siu mei (Cantonese meats typically roasted on spits over an open fire), service so efficient and brusque that it would make a Waltham Dunkin’ Donuts cashier’s head spin, and a carved-out position less than a 3-minute walk from the Sheung Wan MTR, and it’s obvious why Dragon State Kitchen is continuously a name thrown out there with the legends and likes of Earvin Johnson Jr., Larry Bird, and early 20th-century Purdue University basketball coach Ward Louis “Piggy” Lambert.

Because it makes magic with dem birds and piggies. 

Honestly, I’m surprised by now that I haven’t made a Bruce Lee reference. So, without further ado. It’s time to Enter the Dragon…State Kitchen. 

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multicolor xiaolongbao at Paradise Dynasty

I Ain’t Talkin’ Bout No Empire, I’m Talkin’ Bout a (Paradise) Dynasty

I’ve said it once countless times and’ll say it again, Fridays in Hong Kong are sacred for this Big Body. In such a cold world, real cold world, it’s incumbent on oneself to do what you know makes you happy while minimizing the things that ultimately cause you internal vexation and strife. 

Staring down the face of an unrecognizable man while pensively (yet thoroughly) brushing your teeth come Monday morning isn’t a great feeling, especially knowing you spent the previous several days deep in the throes of indulgent, ephemeral experiences, vices, and relationships. 

At the ripe old age of 34, I’m getting better at choosing real happiness instead of the illusion of real happiness. For me, it starts with “Friday hangs” with my Farjar, aka my Fahza, aka (aka) my father. “Fahza Fridays.” 

Recently, we switched things up from our usual stomping grounds of Tseung Kwan O (TKO) and ventured out to the now elephant graveyard of one of the most iconic and technically demanding airports in the world – Kai Tak Airport. As of 2024, Kai Tak is (essentially) a dusty sandlot of former glory undergoing ambitious governmental redevelopment efforts, taking a similar shape to many previous cultural centers and their not-so-pernicious shedding of Hong Kong’s heritage.

That’s right. It has its own 1.9 million square foot mixed-use commercial development now. Which is really just a fancy word for a ‘mall’. 

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Chung Hom Kok Beach at sunset

When is the Best Time to Visit Hong Kong? Recommendations From a Man on the Ground

As someone who has lived in Hong Kong for nearly 7 years now (and is still here), I can emphatically state that there are certain times of the year that I recommend traveling to Hong Kong and steering clear of the city altogether. 

However, things aren’t always as straightforward as ‘X month’ or ‘X season good’, and ‘X month’ or ‘X season bad’. There’s nuance to it and if you ask me, every point of the year in Hong Kong has its advantages and disadvantages. 

It all boils down to what you prefer. It also boils down to timing, feasibility, and affordability. Unfortunately, the holy triumvirate of harmonious circumstances is rarely on the table. 

That said, I recommend visiting Hong Kong in either fall or winter, as the comfortable weather undoubtedly allows you to tick off the most items on a Hong Kong bucket list – specifically outdoor activities and exploring. However, if you’re on a budget and don’t mind unpredictable weather, spring is the time to go! 

Below are the pros and cons of visiting Hong Kong during each season, including when I would plan my trip to Asia’s World City (if possible). I’ll also break down what you can generally expect in Hong Kong each season of the year, including weather, events, budget-wise. 

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Nan Lian Garden

My Hong Kong Packing List: 10 Items I Wouldn’t Touch Down in Asia’s World City Without

You’re currently reading an article written by the king of traveling somewhere and realizing halfway through the flight that they forgot nearly every essential item to ensure the trip goes off without a hitch. How can someone spend so much time just trying to remember to bring their $25 Amazon seat cushion (aka my ‘butt pillow’) yet forget the undergarments that they wear every single day? 

That’s me. Hi. I’m Big Body. Spelled with the same ‘B’ that you use to spell ‘Bozo’. 

Having lived in Hong Kong for nearly seven years (I’m currently here), I’ve been around the block or two. Been there, done that. “Gotten” several T-shirts. Traveling to and from the city, packing and unpacking, making hectic and spur-of-the-moment runs back and forth between Japan Home Centre and wherever I’m staying. Rinse and repeat several times. 

So, I know a thing or two about what you absolutely need to pack for your trip to Hong Kong and what you can feasibly pick up at one of the many electronic stores, beauty chains, or one-stop destination retail chains. 

Luckily, nearly every item and amenity you (probably) need for your trip is easily accessible in “Asia’s World City.” However, just to be safe, there are several things I’d make sure to definitely include in my Hong Kong packing list

Here they are…

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view of Victoria Harbour from High West

9 of the Best Hong Kong Hikes For Intrepid Explorers, Weekend Warriors, & First Timers

I don’t know about you but when it comes to hiking for this Big Body, I’m less of a Nirmal Purja and Tenzing Norgay, and much more of a Preston Blake. You know, that eccentric, pompous billionaire in the Adam Sandler classic Mr. Deeds, who freezes to death while climbing Mount Everest, sans the money, of course.

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char siu at China Club

Gustatorily Clubbin’ at The China Club With My Fahza

If you’ve followed the blog for any amount of time then you already know that every other week, my father (aka my ‘fahza’ – an Austin Powers reference) and I meet up for lunch, engage in heated discussions about String theory and quantum physics (mainly my lack of understanding about each), and stroll around whatever area we just so happen to be in. 

These afternoons have become sacrosanct and are one of my favorite parts about living in Hong Kong. 

So, in honor of both of our birthdays, his hairline still holding up better than mine, we decided to get ‘Iggy Azalea fancy’ by throwing on our best blazers and heading to The China Club for what I consider to be some of the best Cantonese and Chinese cuisine in the city. 

Here’s a little bit about why The China Club’s retro-chic, old Shanghai and Colonial British-style hybrid restaurant should be on your radar and how to navigate snagging a table at this ‘members-only’ club. 

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Hygge porchetta camembert pizza

I Don’t Know Why More People Aren’t Flocking to This TKO Restaurant

Tsueng Kwan O isn’t exactly known as a gastronomic epicenter of Hong Kong. Until about 10 years ago, I’m 99% sure that it was just a flour mill, Elements shopping mall, several apartment buildings, and a couple of turf fields where chubby expat bankers would gather for Sunday league football to relive their glory days of… Sunday league football back home.

And construction. Always construction. 

However, over the last several years, this former Kuomintang loyalist village knew it needed to begin feeding the hefty boys of ‘Brighton past and not so future’. So it started birthing a gaggle of restaurants (upon restaurants) along the Tseung Kwan O South Waterfront Promenade. Eateries, who, in my humble opinion, put a good chunk in Central, and areas of other great gustatory pomp and circumstance, to shame. 

So, I’m here to put this little pocket of food and beverage excellence on your radar, starting with the restaurant that I consider to be, David Goggins-style, carrying the boats – Hygge.

Who’s gonna carry the boats? Hygge will (and does).

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Fini's Homemade Sausage New Haven-style Pizza

Run, Don’t Walk to Get Yourself Fini’s New Haven-Style Pizza

If you’ve read more than a single post on this blog then you may think that I get jazzed about certain foods or things way too easily. On the contrary, I’m usually quite reserved in my gastronomic celebrations (which look somewhat similar to NFL end zone dances) and am known to be a predictable creature of habit with my everyday munchings. So, it requires more than just well-packaged, Instagrammable hype to turn this Big Body from skeptic to believer. 

It’s not about the panache. It’s about the pa-nosh. I’ll see myself out. 

The thing is with Fini’s Italian American in Hong Kong, there was minimal skepticism to begin with. I’ve been an ardent and vociferous supporter of its SoHo branch for many years and can often be found pensively staring down the bottom of an Asahi draft and bowl of their homemade mac n’ cheese post-Peak hike (walk?). 

So, like Don Ready, an American hero (in the company of legends like Henry David Thoreau and David Lee Roth) who stood up for our right to smoke a cigarette while 30,000 feet up in the air, I already knew Fini’s had “the goods.” But I didn’t know just how much better it could get. Enter Hong Kong food and beverage industry titan Vinny Lauria (and fellow New Hampshirite) and a pizza that, outside of New England, is relatively unknown (albeit it is still nationally lauded by pizza critics) – the New Haven-style pizza

Here’s why you need to get on down to Fini’s Italian American to pick up one of these coal-fired, thin-crust saucers of perfection before another Hong Kong pizza joint attempts to hijack this apizza (pronounced “ah-beets”) glory and puts you off from ever trying it. 

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Kam's Roast Goose at SCAA

Roast Goose & Bowl: The Strikin’ Geese Take on the South China Athletic Association

If you don’t have a South China Athletic Association (SCAA) membership, go get one right now. No, this isn’t like the American Club or Carlyle & Co which requires you to sell plasma or beg your bozo British boss for significantly more than your measly expected 3.5% raise just to afford a membership. And, you don’t have to forcefully mingle with people named ‘Tavis’, ‘Blaire’, and ‘Zac’ (‘‘Z-A-C’ does not spell Zack, what the eff is with all that?’’ – Big D & The Kids Table) while discussing Instagram follower counts, Bali beach club bottle service, and other “wannabe Hi-So expat drivel.”

The SCAA is the most affordable club membership in Hong Kong, starting at just HK$130 per month for ‘visiting members’ or HK$250 per year for ‘ordinary members’. Even better, a lifetime membership will only run you HK$3,000. So, if you’re planning to live more than 12 years, this is an absolute steal. And, your membership allows you to bring 3 people at any given time. Simply walk in, fill out a short form, and you’re now a full-fledged member, all in under 10 minutes. 

You now have access to one of the most underrated sports complexes and organizations in Hong Kong. 

If you’re not already jazzed up enough on your own personal driving range, billiards room, and of course 60-lane bowling alley (that’s just the beginning), you’re going to scream like Buddy the Elf when he thought the original Santa was making an appearance at the mall when you learn that the SCAA houses a dim sum and Cantonese restaurant, rowdy sports bar with outdoor seating, and one of the city’s best roast goose and fatty char siu (BBQ pork) haunts. 

So, grab your crew, lay off the McDonald’s nuggets and McDoubles the night before, and head on over to the SCAA for a day of “goose and bowl”. I recently did, with my newly named bowling team (just a duo) – ‘The Strikin’ Geese’. And no, ‘The Strikin’ Geese’ are not underprivileged inner city waterfowl who come together to form a rag-tag group of underdog bowlers – however, I could see ‘Hardball’ being remade with an all-Anatidae cast (still with Keanu…obviously). 

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Hong Kong IFC

Is American Express Accepted in Hong Kong? Convenience, Tips, & Reality

As someone whose first credit card was an American Express, it has sat comfortably at the forefront of the inside of my wallet ever since. The fact that over 99% of merchants in the United States accept Amex, along with the unparalleled travel perks (and points), stellar customer service, and exclusive access to lounges and other experiences definitely contributed to this as well.

However, after moving back to Hong Kong in 2020, I learned that one of the most recognizable credit card brands in the world actually might need to take a back seat in my wallet due to the lack of acceptance at restaurants, cafes, shops, and other establishments. 

While American Express has enjoyed a presence in Hong Kong for several decades now, even offering dedicated personal, corporate, and branded Amex cards tailored to Hong Kong residents, I estimate that less than 50% of all merchants in Hong Kong accept American Express. 

While most major mid-range and fine-dining restaurants, hotels, department stores, shopping malls, and bars in Hong Kong accept American Express, it still hasn’t achieved credit card ubiquity amongst businesses like Visa and Mastercard.  

Below, I’ll provide a breakdown of the common spots that accept American Express in Hong Kong along with where it definitely is not accepted. 

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view of Hong Kong skyline from Hutong

Is There Tipping in Hong Kong? Etiquette & Rules Explained By a Long-Term Resident

As an American, the concept of tipping is at the forefront of almost every single interaction. From standard dine-in restaurants to Starbucks and other artisanal coffee shops, taxi drivers, hotels, and even takeout, I fully acknowledge tipping culture has gotten out of control. I was even prompted to tip at a liquor store once after picking up my own booze and paying at the counter. I’m not against tipping but the line is becoming blurred more and more when it comes to requesting a tip vs. what is expected in the ordinary course of one’s job description. 

Frankly, America’s tipping culture is a driving reason why I love eating, drinking, and living in Hong Kong – as tipping in Hong Kong has not even come half as close to reaching the ubiquity (or absurdity) it has in the United States. Except for select situations or events, tipping in Hong Kong is not expected – the default rule is that you don’t need to tip in Hong Kong. Tipping just isn’t part of the culture. It is, however, always appreciated. 

In my opinion, the only ‘mandatory’ time to tip in Hong Kong is during one specific cultural event and festival – Chinese New Year. However, there are several other key situations where I tip in Hong Kong, which I’ll walk you through below. I’ll also break down several key situations I don’t tip or aren’t typically situations most people tip in Hong Kong. 

Having lived in Hong Kong for six-plus years, the below tipping practices and situations are based on my personal experience. I also asked my father (who has lived in Hong Kong for far longer than I have) and friends who grew up here when they tip in the city and incorporated their answers in this post. 

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Flat Iron Burger's Pigalle N Cheese

Flat Iron Burger is the Real Deal: a Concession By Hong Kong’s Nastiest Hater

As I mentioned in my guide breaking down the beefiest, most bodacious burgers in Hong Kong, when Flat Iron Burger came on the scene earlier this year, I wanted to dislike it. I was like Buc Nasty (R.I.P. Charlie Murphy) at The Playa Haters’ Ball in the G.O.A.T.’ed Chappelle’s Show, ‘The Nastiest Hater’ – one of the most diabolical haters this side of the Mississippi. 

I was essentially a Little League father with a dead-end job and a failing marriage, which caused me to become a fanatical supporter of Flat Iron’s predecessor ‘The Butchers Club’. So when I felt my favorite burger in Hong Kong dropped off in quality, it led to me inevitably taking things out on Bryan from accounting and yelling at volunteer teenage umpires who would miss the occasional ball or strike. If you didn’t catch the metaphor, The Butchers Club’s burger was my imaginary Little League son.

Consider this a letter of contrition. Scratch that. Consider this a letter of celebration. As I’ve done so in many facets and instances of life, I came too quick with…judgment. An ‘OPH’ (Original Playa Hater) would have been more cool, calm, and collected, only passing judgment after having tried the burger for himself. Having now frequented Flat Iron Burger five-plus times (with zero intention to stop), it has quickly risen in my power rankings as one of the best burgers in Hong Kong – a heifer harbor prioritizing premium beef and other ingredients, all at an affordable price.

Here’s everything I love about Flat Iron Burger on Elgin Street and why, if you’re in the running for the honor of 2024’s ‘Nastiest Hater’, you need to check yourself before your riggity-wreck yourself. 

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