View of Mid-Levels from the top of Victoria Peak

10 Pros and Cons of Living in Mid-Levels, Hong Kong

When moving to Hong Kong, it can be difficult to know exactly what district or neighborhood will suit your lifestyle requirements before you even arrive. The city comprises countless districts, neighborhoods, and pockets, all of which boast their own benefits and drawbacks (and charm) – some you might not believe exist in the same city due to the stark contrast to one another.

Maybe you are more of a beach bum, looking to start your day off with Vitamin D and a morning surf, then Sai Kung might be your little slice of heaven. Or maybe you want a raucous, vibrant maze of both new and old Hong Kong (with fantastic street food), then Mongkok or Jordan might be right up your alley. Or maybe you’re in need of a quiet, residential neighborhood that is only a stone’s throw away from your office and the hustle and bustle of the city. Well, then Mid-Levels might be your place

As someone who has lived in Mid-Levels for all six-plus years that I’ve existed in Hong Kong (I’m just a creature of habit), here are 10 pros and cons to paint a better picture of what you can expect should you decide to stop, drop, and open up shop in this surprisingly large area. Keep in mind that most of my observations are coming from someone who has lived in Mid-Levels Central.

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Hiking in Hong Kong

36 Pros and Cons of Living in Hong Kong as an Expat

Analyzing the pros and cons of living in Hong Kong can be difficult before you even step foot in the city. Typically, my approach is a bit of a haphazard one where I just show up and hope that it works out. Luckily, that has worked out in almost every single city (and country) that I’ve lived in. It worked out so well in Hong Kong that it is somewhere I’ve called home for the last three years (and six-plus in total) – with no intention of leaving (at least for now).

This isn’t a symmetrical pros and cons of living in Hong Kong type of list, where I list a positive and then counter with a related negative. It’s strictly just a list of pros and cons that have come to the top of my dome, with several thoughts, anecdotes, and tips to accompany each. Each pro and con could be a blog post in itself but for the sake of brevity, I’ll keep it (relatively) digestible.

So, if you’re curious about what I love most about living in the aptly named Fragrant Harbor and what I’m not as enthusiastic about, then here are 36 pros and cons of living in Hong Kong as an expat.

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rabbit stew at Ivan the Kozak

Pierogies, Rabbit Stew, & Stroganoff at Hong Kong’s First Ukrainian Restaurant

Pushing 23 years in the Hong Kong food and beverage scene, Ivan the Kozak was (and still is) a much-needed answer to an established (and burgeoning at the same time?) food scene that has always oddly lacked Eastern European fare. Serving up Ukrainian classics like potato and mushroom pierogies, borscht (Ukrainian borscht to emphasize – typically made with pork rather than beef), and even veal casseroles, Ivan the Kozak has remained steadfast in providing Ukrainian warmth and comfort in pleated dough form – which unsurprisingly, is why it is one of my favorite restaurants in all of Hong Kong.

Oh, and there’s vodka. Lots and lots of vodka. Tried and tested by yours truly. That always helps. Except for the three bottles of vodka I drank with my best friend, an elderly Ukrainian woman, and a Russian busboy on my 29th birthday in Vienna, which led to me projectile vomiting all over the Hofburg Palace (I’ve mentioned this in other posts on the site).

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ChatGPT home screen

How to Access ChatGPT in Hong Kong

This is a bit of a different article but it seems apropos given that OpenAI just announced the rollout of voice and image support for ChatGPT-4V, an iteration of the AI-powered large language model (LLM.) that has taken the tech world by storm in the last year. From deploying ChatGPT in personal and professional textual applications such as content creation, translation, and even conversational use, to programmatic tasks, data collection and analysis, and other core business operations, such as coding (albeit limited) and customer service support/chatbots, there’s not much that’s off-the-table when it comes to finding a use-case to meet your specific needs. 

But for those in Hong Kong (and more than a handful of other countries which some may argue are under totalitarian control – other peoples’ words, not mine), even accessing this free AND paid service can be prohibitive and is not particularly intuitive. That’s why I’m here to break it down into easy-to-understand steps on how to access ChatGPT in Hong Kong (with visuals).

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Hong Kong skyline over Victoria Harbour from The Peak

October 2023 Events That Should Be on Your Radar

I’m a few days late with this as I had a hectic end to the month with client work and then may or may not have found hope at the bottom of a mango cider or seven as I rang in 33. Thanks to a self-prescribed vacation until the 11th, today is the first day the mind, body, and soul have felt unencumbered, (temporarily) unshackled from the banalities of everyday life. 

Now that I think of it, isn’t that what Halloween is for once you become an adult? A chance to suspend disbelief and untether from the reality of spreadsheets, water cooler pleasantries, and Tim from HR telling you about how he’s training for his first Hyrox competition.

With a heart full of pumpkin spice and woe, here are some hand-picked events, festivals, restaurants, and things to do this October 2023. 

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Schnitzel & Schnapps black and green store front

Does Schnitzel & Schnaps Do Central European-Inspired Fare Justice?

I had low expectations for finding quality schnitzel in Hong Kong after several failed attempts over on Kowloon and was quickly losing hope that I would be able to recreate my most memorable and formative Vienna days in fried, frisbee-sized form. At one point, I even considered putting in an offer for a newborn calf at a farm out in the New Territories, purchasing a small plot of grassland on Robinson Road, and picking up a meat tenderizer from Japan Home Centre.

That was until I spotted the borderline-kitsch, Santa’s village of green and gold decor that one day was erected on the ever-bustling second road built in the colony of Hong Kong –  Hollywood Road – where life begins and ends for most Mid-Levels 9-8’ers and self-anointed IFC elites. 

Skeptical, I donned my finest lederhosen, perched atop the Conduit escalator delta, and sent out a rallying cry yodel for all to hear, eagerly awaiting my Hong Kong Julie Andrewses and David Hasselhoffs to bound towards me, clogs clip-clopping up the stainless steel steps with the might of one thousand Clydesdales, in a jovial hunger. Rosy-cheeked and out of breath, they would bashfully inquire, “Vat is it, Grandpapa?” “Over the river and through the woods, to Schnitzel & Schnaps we go,” I’d triumphantly proclaim, plucking at my suede leather suspenders while rubbing my belly and patting an adolescent von Trapp on the head. 

However, that was just a dream and I instead decided to stop in on a Thursday night, sweaty and wearing my third-finest pair of Adidas athletic shorts, after a long day of merciless lashings by ungrateful, entitled clients. I was thankfully accompanied by one of my top herrs, who is about as German as Häagen-Dazs. 

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Hong Kong skyline view from Bishop Lei International House

Should You Stay at the Bishop Lei International House?

If you read any of my other posts on Pale Ale Travel then you know for the first 6 months of 2023, I was located between Saigon, Bangkok, and Osaka (the latter being my new favorite city on earth). Prior to leaving, my apartment lease ended so coming back and getting resituated was a bit of an arduous and overwhelming process. 

However, providing refuge in the quest for my reclamation of stability in Hong Kong was the Bishop Lei International House. Located at 4 Robinson Road, in the prestigious Mid-Levels, Bishop Lei is a convenient, affordable, 3-star hotel that is perfect for budget travelers and those wanting to immerse themselves a stone’s throw away from all the action of Hong Kong Island.

Having lived in Hong Kong for six-plus years, all of it on Robinson Road (until recently), I’ve inevitably stayed at the Bishop Lei more than a handful of times – with my most recent stint clocking in at just under one month. While it definitely is not the sexiest or most luxurious hotel by any stretch of the imagination, Bishop Lei does hold its own when it comes to hospitality, amenities (outdoor pool, restaurant, and exercise room), and convenience (I can’t state this enough). 

Here’s a little bit about my most recent stay in the Bishop Lei International House and what I particularly enjoyed (and what I didn’t). 

P.S. If you couldn’t already tell, the feature image of Hong Kong’s skyline was taken from my room at Bishop Lei.

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Hong Kong skyline from Victoria Peak

What’s New in Hong Kong: September 2023 Events You Should Check Out

September is hands down my favorite month of the year. Maybe it’s because I’m a Libra and both my old man and I were born in September. Maybe it’s because I have fond memories of peacocking around my home state in my best flannel while sipping apple cider. Or maybe it’s because the killer Hong Kong heat and humidity begin gradually abating (I’m kidding, that’s not until November). 

Regardless, I love this month and you should too. Don’t “wake me up when September ends,” because there’s a lot of life to be lived this fall.

Here are some hand-picked events, festivals, restaurants, and spots to check out this September 2023 in Hong Kong.

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Maru De Sankaku madai and shellfish ramen noodles and yuzu paste

6 Ramen Spots in Central, Hong Kong to Get Your Noodle Fix

I’m not sure I would have ever written this piece if I hadn’t spent the last three months in Osaka, Japan. Ramen became a regular staple in my diet. Over three months in Japan, I ate at approximately 30 ramen restaurants (and countless more noodle shops – e.g. Soba and udon) and wrote a guide on 21 of my favorite ramen spots in Osaka. Even though I’ve lived in Hong Kong for a combined six-plus years, I had never paid much attention to ramen here. 

But like a newborn lamb with a fresh set of eyes and palate, I’m here and free of noodle sin, ready to become a Hong Kong ramen martyr so that you can get your fix. 

During my three-month stint in Osaka, something clicked genetically and gastronomically, to where I’m now at a point where I need a bowl of ramen at least twice per week. And, in a beleaguered city where some lunch and dinner prices can have you wondering exactly where your money went, ramen is an affordable, convenient, and filling option that should not be slept on.

In no particular order, here are six ramen spots you can’t miss in Central, Hong Kong. All have various branches spread out across Hong Kong but for the manageability of this article, I’ve only provided their Central location addresses. 

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Hong Kong skyline during the day from The Peak

13 Tips to Choose the Right Gym For You in Hong Kong

I’m starting to lean into a bit more of the Hong Kong lifestyle content. After all, I’m a Hong Kong resident and have been based here for a combined six-plus years. Life. Check. Style. A work in progress. One particular issue that has plagued me and countless others is finding a gym that matches their fitness needs and budgets in this beleaguered city. 

During these tempestuous, formative, and electrifying years, I’ve been a member of three gyms – two of which have gone under and left me out of a sizable amount of Hamiltons (It’s all about the Hamiltons, baby). I’m not angry. Just plotting my long-term revenge like Chan-wook Park in Oldboy. Your day will come, Goji management. Your day will come. 

I’d like to quote the sales associate from Goji (who was just a pawn in a chess game bigger than himself), the gym where I paid a lump sum upfront and it went under 6 months later, “Sorry, I can’t guarantee your money back because I haven’t even been paid for three months.” Don’t let this be you.

Frankly, after spending a considerable amount of time working on my laptop in the waiting area of my current gym (referred to as “my gym” from here on out) and listening to the incessant sales pitches (and experiencing them myself) made by associates to prospective members – this landscape is volatile and predatory. There’s a lot of dishonesty at play, all in the name of a quick buck. 

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Zuma Hong Kong sushi bar

3:10 to Zuma: The Neverending, Free-Flow Brunch of the Century

If you are looking for the holy grail of all brunches in Hong Kong, look no further than ‘Zuma’s Weekend Brunch’.

This is the brunch mecca to go on pilgrimage to, where you cast the ring into Mount Doom to prevent Sauron from destroying brunches across Middle Earth, your final resting place as you kick up your feet and hum R.E.M.’s ‘It’s the End of the World as We Know It’ while digging into free-flow champagnes and wines, neverending gyoza and sashimi bowls, and other Japanese izakaya-inspired fare.

… “And I feel fine.”

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shugetsu tsukemen and broth

Shugetsu’s Tsukemen: My Number One Meal in All of Hong Kong

Shugetsu’s tsukemen would unquestionably be my last meal on earth if I was ever on death row. This might sound absurd but it isn’t a lie. Shugetu’s tsukemen was (and still is) my number one meal when I was training for a powerlifting competition – unfortunately, I kept eating like I was training for a powerlifting competition once I ended and I developed a crippling tsukemen addiction.

There have been worse things in life.

This Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, a ramen hybrid consisting of a salty broth, 300 grams of al-dente elastic noodles, and fatty pork belly cubes is everything that is right in the world. Pair it with an ice-cold, crisp Suntory Premium draft beer, crunchy fried chicken cartilage “bar snacks”, and half-moon pork-filled gyoza pillows, and your last days won’t be for nothing. 

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