Taiho Ramen-Kiyamachi: a Late-Night, Kurobuta Ramen Institution in Kyoto

If you’ve read my guide on 21 days of ramen in Osaka, then you already know that I’m the self-proclaimed Tyrone Biggums of ramen. Except, instead of white shiny rocks of ‘kryptonite’, my addiction is fatty, smoky char siu and shoyu (soy sauce) ramen broths. And I can’t get enough of it. 

I hate to admit it but I wasn’t particularly sold on Kyoto at first. I know. That’s crazy of me. I chalk it up to the fact that I first arrived right during the hectic and overpriced ‘Golden Week’, where families from across Japan flood the streets, shops, and restaurants, and every shrine or temple feels as if you were the 3,000th visitor of the day. I only really warmed up to Kyoto during my second stint there where I was finally able to ease into a comfortable, workable, predictable routine (this Big Body likes predictability). 

But there was one constant that remained through the thick and thin – from my first tumultuous moments getting muscled to the back of the line by a horde of Eastern European tourists at Family Mart to my solo treks up Fushimi Inari at night and serene runs along the Kamogawa River – ‘Taiho Ramen – Kiyamachi’ – a vibrant, late-night hole-in-the-wall ramen shop serving up a rich, thick shoyu-based broth that is packed to the brim with Kagoshima Berkshire char siu (pork). 

Here’s why I loved it and can’t wait to get back.

Note: This is not the famous ‘Taiho Ramen’ in Fukuoka Prefecture which serves up a famous tonkotsu ramen!

Late-Night Shenanigans at Taiho Ramen – Kiyamachi

• Address: 191-11 Shimokorikicho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-0961, Japan
  • Hours: 6 PM – 6 AM (every day except Wednesday)

I think a part of why I “gots this double-wide frame of mine” is from the fact that I typically eat quite late at night (it might also be because I literally became best friends with the McDelivery guy in Taipei over the span of 3 years). Unfortunately for me, late-night eating doesn’t jive that well with Kyoto. 

Kyoto is a relatively early-to-bed and sleepy city. Yes, there is some trouble to get into but restaurant-wise I either found myself showing up solo to crowded restaurants at capacity where I was unable to snag a seat, or closed doors for the night. During my combined three weeks in Kyoto, I ran out of places post-10 PM very quickly. 

I love the feeling in Japan of wandering down a back alley and having absolutely no idea what black cauldron of gastronomic gold sits at the end of it. Taiho Ramen epitomizes this “pot of gold at the end of the rainbow” type of vibe as it is a seemingly innocuous shop located down a small alley sandwiched between Kiyamachi-Dori and Pontocho Park. It is a strictly night-time and late-night spot, so if you walk by during the day, there’s a high probability that you don’t even realize it’s a ramen restaurant (when I first walked by there were cardboard boxes stacked higher than Andre the Giant in the windows).

However, once the doors open at 6 PM, it’s on. So I hope you are ready for some ramen and Donkey Kong. For reference, I ate here five times during my three weeks in Kyoto – and to ensure a well-balanced review, I did eat here twice of the five times while sober.

Tenacious & Iconic: A Kurobuta Boutonnière Over Rich Shoyu Broth

Before I dive in, notice how there is a slight opening at the front of the char siu in the top image, it’s because I just couldn’t control myself and it was as if there was some magnetic attraction that delivered a slice from my bowl into my mouth before I could take a picture.

Taiho Ramen is electric. It’s chaotic. It’s hard to find. It’s everything that a late-night ramen shop in Japan (or anywhere in the world) should be. My first night at Taiho Ramen was rowdy. After a night of too many Kirin nama beerus to count, I stumbled down the alley just off of Kiyamachi-Dori and was greeted by a raucous, jovial crew of Japanese salarymen eagerly (and orderly) awaiting their turn at Kyoto’s number one hangover cure. Based on this alone, I knew I was in the right spot. 

I bid my time, reflecting on something profound I’m sure (I wish), and stepped into the shop. Upon entering I was confronted with a single wrap-around counter (I think it’s a 12-seater) – a modern-day Japanese Waffle House (I definitely lived at a Waffle House in Panama City Beach, Florida for spring break my senior year of university). There was one table in the back right which was populated with some of Taiho’s finest singing and throwing back Asahis – I was in heaven.

Side Note: This spot is so beloved that it isn’t unsurprising to have to wait in line at even 10 PM on Sunday or Monday nights.

If you want to feel like you are part of the social, Bacchanalian fabric that operates at the core of Japanese nightlife, this is your place. It is “indulgence meets sodality.” At any given moment (this is a generalization) you’ll see long-time regulars or tourists cheersing, trading banter with the staff, and ramen enthusiasts merrily slurping up the broth in front of them. It’s a symphony, not a cacophony.

Pale Ale Travel Tip: Kyoto came into my life at a time when I really needed to treat myself and was the primary city where I went on wagyu beef benders (post forthcoming). If you would like a list of several of my favorite yakiniku spots in Kyoto, feel free to comment below or shoot me a message on Instagram (or wait until the post goes live)!

We Have Two Brave Pigs on a Maiden Voyage to Thank 

The special char siu ramen is all you need. It’s been written by the fates before you were even born. Taiho uses black Kagoshima Berkshire pork, commonly referred to as Kurobuta pork, a premium, extremely tender pork originating in the southwestern Kagoshima prefecture (hence the name) of Japan. 

Some call it the ‘Kobe beef’ of pork due to the pig’s high amounts of intramuscular fat. I wouldn’t disagree. These pigs are tender and that’s an understatement.  

A fun fact about the Kagoshima Berkshire pigs in Japan is that they are named after and come from the ‘Berkshire’ pig breed from the United Kingdom that was introduced to the Japanese in the mid to late 1800s. They can be traced back to two brave Berkshire pigs that took that maiden voyage over to Japan (one was the ship’s Captain I think). Kurobuta pigs are typically distinguishable by six white marks on their limbs and snout and tail, and also sometimes called ‘Roppaku’ (six white marks). 

At present, Kagoshima Berkshire pigs account for roughly 2% of all pork in the country. I think there’s 2% of all pork in the country in the bowl that they serve at Taiho because it is a Herculean amount.

Pale Ale Travel Tip: In Kagoshima Berkshire pig research, I stumbled upon this gem of a website called ‘Salute the Pig’ that provides a fantastic breakdown and history of Kagoshima Berkshire pigs, diagrams and all. I strongly recommend checking this out for a real primer on these white-tipped big boys. 

While Kagoshima Berkshire pigs are typically more on the expensive side of pigs to rear, you really don’t notice that in the price point at all – with bowls clocking in right around 1,200 yen (or USD 8) for a large bowl.

When it’s first slid in front of you, it’s easy to mistake it for a giant meat sunflower – one so Dorothy might joyfully skip on by on her way to Oz, due to the delicately spread out thin slices of char siu that line the edges of the bowl – I counted at least eight or nine chunks of this fatty goodness. 

This is a dark soy sauce (shoyu) ramen with conviction. It is NOT one of those light soy sauces that almost reminds you of a flavorful vegetable broth. No, this is a heavy-duty, salty, and somewhat thick soy sauce broth that is guaranteed to fill you up if you finish the bowl. It’s so rich in taste that I read a lot of regulars actually opt for a lighter broth here. 

But that’s why this is the holy land for late-night boozed-up Chewbacca look-alikes and magic makers (myself included). Because it’s the perfect spot to recap your night and/or sober up for the next day. 

At the heart of the dish are Taiho’s medium-thick (I really wanted to use the term ‘stupid thick’ but it isn’t applicable here) noodles which boast a springy and slightly chewy texture – erring on the side of al dente. 

Each bite carried the essence of the broth without absorbing it to an excessive degree, resulting in a loss of textural integrity. Nothing is more disappointing than when you’re served a bowl of piping hot ramen and the noodles don’t pass muster so they end up completely submerged and mushy.  

An absolute sleeper ingredient for me in ramen is the bamboo shoots (if they are quality). Taiho’s bamboo shoots were cooked exactly how I like them, matching the tenderness of the meat with the addition of a slight crunch. Paired with a thick, rich salty shoyu, the earthiness both mellows it out and adds some additional depth to its flavor profile with a slightly sour tang.

Mix in a liberal garnishing of colorful green spring onions and it all comes full circle with the perfect juxtaposition, a satisfying crunch, to the melty Kurobuta char siu slices bathing in the broth.

Pale Ale Travel Tip: If you are in the mood for flavorful, hearty curry udon (possibly best eaten in the wintertime), make sure to check out one of my other favorite late-night spots ‘G-men’ – a stone’s throw away from Taiho Ramen.

Taiho Ramen: a Raucous Rendezvous to Replenish Ravenous Ramen Ravers

Not only is Taiho Ramen the perfect late-night haunt to wind down the night, but it’s also the perfect launching point for a night out in Kyoto. Beers are frosty and flow sweeter than vanilla (ice-cold Kirin bottles) and there is a palpable energy that is hard not to absorb. You feel as if you are part of the fabric of what it means to be a Kyoto-ite (I have no idea if this is what they are called). 

However, this is a spot that can be enjoyed solo or with a crew, so whatever your night or plans, there’s always a spot at the U-shaped counter for you. I’ve done both and each experience was just as great as the other. I’m not saying that it’s mandatory to show up here after a heavy night of hitting the nama beerus at a Kyoto izakaya or yakitori haunt but it sure can’t hurt. 

If you have eaten at Taiho Ramen, or have another favorite ramen spot in Kyoto, I’d love to hear from you in the comments (or by email). And don’t forget to check out my comprehensive Osaka ramen guide if you are passing through the ‘Nation’s Kitchen’.

Eat well everyone,

Big Body