Exploring Hiroshima’s Underground Oyakodon Movement at Torisanwa

You know how in your quest to find a spectacular new restaurant in whatever country you’re traveling to, you’ll inevitably stumble on a social media influencer’s page who has an oddly well-produced, 30-second video vignette highlighting that restaurant or specific dish (with not another single customer in sight), and suddenly be overcome with this compulsion to eat there even though you know deep down it isn’t going to live up to the hype? 

Of course, after arriving, reality hits as you see the two-hour line of other platitudinal travelers eagerly awaiting what turns out to be a meal you could have eaten 100 meters down the street, at one-half the price, and of better quality. Well, this post is to hopefully make you think twice before giving in to that urge.

This post is a call to (eating) arms to avoid settling for the most obvious choice (sometimes). Poke around, open that door that you’re unsure what’s behind it (unless it’s someone’s apartment), walk into a restaurant where you know it will elicit stares and awkwardness as you ask in broken Japanese if there are any available seats, step outside your comfort zone. You might just find the best oyakodon (or other beloved Japanese dish) you’ll ever eat in your life. I did.

Here’s a little bit about how this three-seat oyakodon counter in a supermarket at the bottom of a shopping mall in Hiroshima completely caught me by surprise, bringing me both tremendous joy and sadness at the same time. Joy because I knew this was the apex of what a fantastic oyakodon should be and sadness because I was set to leave Hiroshima the next day.

But first, let’s dig into a little bit about exactly what oyakodon is and why its name is shrewd and unironically morbid.

A Slightly Macabre, Comforting Bowl of Simplicity

Literally translating to ‘parent-child’ rice bowl (親子丼), oyakodon is a popular donburi and Japanese dish consisting of tender, juicy chicken (the parent), egg (the child), sliced or diced scallion, and a handful of other ingredients (that can be worked in depending on the shop) that are simmered in a mirin-soy sauce dashi (stock) and ladled across a bed of rice. 

Oyakodon is just one amalgamation of the “protein on rice” motif, which also boasts popular dishes you may have heard of such as the katsudon (fried pork cutlets over rice), gyudon (simmered beef), and unadon (teriyaki eel filets).

This is Japanese comfort food at its finest and a popular staple of Japanese fast food. If I had to declare any dish my favorite in all of Japan, this would be it. If you’ve read my post on why I’m a Yoshinoya ride-or-die for life, then you already know that these simple, filling, rice and protein bowls are my go-to dinner – especially after a long day of work. 

There’s really not much more to it other than that. It’s a dish that has been around since the late 1800s and not only stood the test of time but also became a beloved dish that you would be hard-pressed to find someone in Japan who doesn’t enjoy it. 

Pale Ale Travel Tip: If you’re passing through Osaka and looking for a ramen-oyakodon bang-bang combo that will blow your socks off, make sure to check out my 21 Days of Ramen in Osaka, where I write about ‘Kuriyan’ – a ramen and rice bowl shop serving up mammoth oyakodon bowls (and their famous Popeye-don with spinach) and tonkotsu ramen. 

Tasting My Way Through Hiroshima’s Underground Oyakodon Scene

When writing ‘Underground Oyakodon Scene’ I couldn’t help but picture the woman who served me on stage, battling Clarence (aka Papa Doc) in 8 Mile by bringing out bowl after bowl of oyakodon and making him teary-eyed because no matter how good Clarence’s parents’ marriage is, he knows that nothing would ever come close to the sanctity of this oyakodon.

Website, Address, & Details: https://www.sanwa-grp.co.jp/ 

• Name: Torisanwa (alternate spelling ‘Tori Sanwa’)
• Address: Floor B1, Fukuya Hatchobori Store, 6-26 Ebisucho, Naka Ward, Hiroshima, 730-0021, Japan 

Note: I should mention that Torisanwa actually originated in Nagoya and has placed numerous oyakodon nests all over Japan (and even in Singapore and Taiwan), including three in Hiroshima alone. The Fukuya Hatchobori Store is the only shop in Hiroshima with sides and a display case with raw meat to choose from.

Sometimes the Holy Spirit of [insert alternating foods and cuisines here] visits me in the middle of the night and forces me out the door the next day like Seabiscuit right out of the gate. In this case, it was the ghost of oyakodon who visited me and whose ethereal presence consumed my mind, stomach, and soul my second to last night in Hiroshima. 

I Googled and Tabelog’ed like no other, fingers furiously stumbling over one another trying to spell ‘oyakodon’, ultimately deferring to autocorrect. I landed on an oyakodon spot called ‘Torisanwa’ within walking distance and set forth like Feivel, tracing chicken and egg glory rather than familial rodentia. I remember that day well as I pumped myself full of caffeine at Morgan, a popular sandwich and coffee joint in the heart of the city, and Wakakusa Coffee, a cozy husband and wife-run cafe just off the Kyobashi River, to ensure I had enough energy for my oyakodon marathon.

Side note: I would kick myself if I didn’t include the self-portrait found on one of the bookshelves by the owner of Wakakusa.

After consuming enough espresso to kill a middle-aged elephant, I decided (or fate and heart’s desire for longevity decided) that it was time to pay pilgrimage to my newly appointed oyakodon ‘Mecca’ and I made my way over to the bustling Hondori Shopping Street. The terrain was familiar, as I had spent several previous nights in the neighborhood at Okonomimura – an okonomiyaki village and most popular “food theme park” in all of Japan – attempting to set the record for most Suntory Premiums drank in one sitting. 

Maybe it was the fact that I had tried to set the imaginary “nama beeru record” the previous night but for the life of me, I just could not piece together how to find this oyakodon haunt. Thankfully (and unfortunately), I have the bladder of an infant and urgently popped into the nearest mall (Fukuya Hatchobori Store) to find a bathroom. 

After expelling 13 Suntory Premiums and two medicinal Coke Zeros, I was of “sounder mind” (the “body” part may never come together but that’s alright) to realize that Torisanwa was/is actually located in Fukuya Hatchobori Store – the mall that I was in. Luckily, a fellow Googler had mentioned that Torisanwa was in the basement of the store, and down the escalators I went. To say I was in supermarket heaven would be an understatement. From pinwheels of sashimi and assorted sushi to Japanese custard buns and croissants to butchers with the beefiest bovine bites, this supermarket had it all. 

Like Theseus, but with the sweet and salty smell of oyakodon as my guiding thread, I intrepidly navigated the supermarket labyrinth, locating Torisanwa’s white curtain hiding three chairs and accompanying oyakodon bulletin. If you do take on this perilous journey (sans minotaur), you’ll inevitably question if you’re in the right spot after pulling up and seeing glass display cases of assorted chicken skewers, cuts, and filets. Have some conviction parting that white curtain, as you are about to encounter the sweetest group of poultry muses who are more than eager to lull you into a state of paralyzing bliss with their flavorful chicken and fluffy eggs.

There is no English menu at Torisanwa, however, you’ll be handed a menu with pictures of 8 different poultry-based rice bowls. Look for the characters ‘親子丼’ or simply use Google Translate. From memory, the only difference between the 親子丼 at Torisanwa is the sides that they come with. 

For example, one may come with miso soup while the other may come with a side of karaage (fried chicken) – the bowls and sides are relatively easy to deduce from the pictures, so I have great confidence in you succeeding in this quest. I’m also 95% sure that mine also came with an unexpected pickled plum (the brownish ball on the white plate in the middle).

Salty, sweet, velvety, chewy, and moisturized, Torisanwa’s oyakodon is the definition of balance. I am very much a big proponent of the slippery and/or runny eggs (these are very popular in Hong Kong) which are cooked by continuously stirring and folding the eggs over one another and removed from the pan just as they begin to set. Oyakodon eggs are cooked similarly, whisked lightly, and poured over simmering chicken and onions, resulting in a runny (slightly soupy some might say), silky consistency that permeates nearly every crack of the giant serving of steamed rice beneath.

The chicken (typically thighs), Japan’s famous ‘Nagoya Cochin’ (a slightly elastic, textured, and firm chicken meat) is cut into bite-sized pieces for even and quick preparation and is cooked with a similar precision to the runny, silky eggs – never erring on the side of overcooked. Covered in a sweet and salty broth, consisting of mirin (rice wine), soy sauce, and dashi (stock), what follows is a savory, juicy, coalition between the caramelized onions, chicken, and eggs (the parent and the child) as they cluck their final goodbyes (that seems a bit too morbid).

Laid over a bed of fluffy white rice, and you have, in my humble opinion, the most satisfying comfort food in existence (and that’s coming from a man who grew up eating meatloaf and mashed potatoes on the regular).

While I can unequivocally state that Torisanwa has served me the single best bowl of oyakodon I’ve ever been gastronomically blessed with, this post is more to encourage you to seek out any oyakodon restaurant that is off the beaten path (in Hiroshima or elsewhere in Japan). Take that plunge. You won’t regret it.

Pale Ale Travel Tip: If you’re traveling to Hiroshima and want a raucous, action-packed, eating and entertainment adventure, make sure to head to a Hiroshima Carp baseball game. This is hands down one of the most beautiful stadiums that I’ve ever been to, has possibly the most dedicated fanbase in the Nippon Professional League (NPL), and is capital S ‘stacked’ with baseball snacks and drinks galore.

You’re the One, Oyakodon

Hiroshima proved to be my favorite city for eating during my three months in Japan. From its iconic, multi-story okonomiyaki village – Okonomimura – to its slightly masochistic, spicy yet refreshing chili oil tsukemen, to this juicy, umami-rich, tender bowl of mother and child over a bed of rice, I didn’t have a bad meal my entire time in Hiroshima. In fact, I had the best versions of some of my favorite Japanese classics here.

If you’ve been to Hiroshima, I’d love to hear from you in the comments. What was your favorite food and what did you like or love about the city? I couldn’t get enough of everything while I was there.

Unsurprisingly, it had me under a gastronomic spell which I still can’t shake to this day. I know I’ll be back and will make sure that I explore more food courts and stalls at the bottom of shopping malls, knowing very well that possibly one of the best meals of my life awaits me – it hasn’t steered me wrong thus far.

Eat well everyone,

Big Body