Mostar Travel Itinerary: Things to Do in Mostar

Look, I know what you are thinking. I’ll head to Mostar, Bosnia for one or two days, get a feel for the city, eat some great food, see the sights, and then head back to Dubrovnik or Sarajevo and continue with my trip. I can assure you that Mostar is not a one or two day trip. It truly is one of the most underrated cities I’ve been to and I would recommend anyone considering a trip to stay at least five days to one week. 

I spent nearly two weeks in Mostar during my time in the Balkans (I was posted up in Split, Croatia for the bulk of it), and found myself discovering something new every day. From delicious cevapis and burek, to pristine waterfalls and monasteries, to historic Ottoman bridges, minarets and mosques, Mostar is a clash of cultures set to make you truly feel that you are at the intersection of where East meets West. 

I do understand however that most people are making a short trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik or Sarajevo and likely want a concise and practical itinerary, so I have compiled a 2-3 day itinerary with my favorite things to do (and eat) in Mostar. I would recommend actually spreading everything out over three days, but I think everything can be completed in two. 

For those wanting to knock out a little homework before heading to Mostar, I recommend reading up on Mostar’s history here. 

If you are heading to Mostar from Split, make sure to check out my article on taking the bus from Split to Mostar!

Where to Stay in Mostar

A view from my room at the Villa Neretva.

If you are heading to Mostar, you hands down have to stay in the Old Town (or as close as possible). There’s no shortage of Airbnbs, short-term apartments, and hotels to rent in Mostar’s Old Town. Nothing quite beats waking up next to the famous emerald green colored Neretva River which flows directly through the city.

I stayed right in the heart of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Old Town (several minutes walking to Stari Most) in the “Villa Neretva” complex. I’ll let the below picture do the talking here, but waking up to a view of the surrounding mountains was one of the best starts to my day I could ask for. 

This isn’t an Airbnb review by any means, but this quality apartment will only run you about USD $50 per night – less if you book for a week (thanks to the week long discount). You can sort through apartments and rooms in Mostar via Airbnb. This is quite a popular destination in the summertime, so you will likely want to book your apartment or hotel at least one month in advance.  

I would personally recommend staying on the East Side (predominantly Bosniak) between Kardinala Stepina (road) and Stari Pazar (road) to stay within the confines of the Old Town. Do note that roughly 50% of Bosnia’s population is Muslim, so you will likely hear the ‘Call to Prayer’ right before sunrise when staying right in the Old Town. 

Having walked the entire city several days over, I would recommend anyone looking to stay close or in the Old Town booking one of the following hotels:

• Shangri La Mansion: casual lodging in a 19th century mansion boasting a rooftop terrace. 
• Kriva Cuprija Hotel: stone building sporting views of the Neretva River and literally a 3-minute walk from the Old Bridge. 
• Hotel Kapetanovina: a down to earth hotel located right along the Neretva River (with balcony views) and a 10 minute walk from the Museum of War and Genocide Victims. 

I also recommend using HomeAway to narrow down a spot to stay, which boasts over 80 rentals and allows you to even sort apartments and villas by whether they have a pool or not!

Where to Eat in Mostar

A delicious cevapi from Grill Centar (as mentioned below).

This is my favorite part (and probably yours too). This city is a meat lover’s dream. Vegetarian options are available, but slim pickings. Bosnia is a pro-meat country. When chatting with a local guy at one of the best coworking spots I’ve ever worked out of, CodeHub Mostar, he noted that unlike the U.S., where most of the meat we consume is straight out of a factory farm, Bosniaks are going right into their backyards (or to local farms) to source the meat. 

The difference in taste is obvious, and I was in meat-heaven during my near-two-week stint. 

Below are five of my favorite restaurants that I ate at while in Mostar. 

Pro Tip: Mostar is famous for accepting multiple currencies, including euros, Croatian Kuna, and the Bosnian Mark, so don’t stress if you are making a trip from Split or Dubrovnik and only have Kuna on you! 

1. Grill Centar

I thought I had it good while living in Split with my local cevapi spot – that was until I went to Grill Centar right in the heart of Mostar. For those not in the know, the cevapi is the national dish of Bosnia and Herzegovina and is a grilled, minced caseless sausage. There are several variations of the meat used, however most cevapis are made from pork, beef, and veal (and sometimes lamb). They typically come in servings of five or ten and are served with a Turkish flatbread, chopped onions and garlic, and kajmak (basically a cheese butter – highly recommend). 

Grill Centar’s cevapi uses high quality meat – from what I remember it was a healthy mix of beef, veal, and pork. It wasn’t greasy at all, and the minced garlic and onions served with it were utterly divine. 

This was my frequented spot during my stay in Mostar, so I was able to mix things up a bit, trying the grilled chicken thighs and veal skewers as well. I highly recommend both. So, if you are looking for a no frills spot, serving high quality (non-greasy) meat, and possibly the best cevapi in all of Mostar – look no further than Grill Centar. 

Hours: Everyday 7AM-11PM

Location: BA, Braće Fejića, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

2. Restoran Sadrvan

I’ll just throw it out there right away. Sadrvan is quite touristy and might seem gimmicky, but it is absolutely worth going to. Located right in the heart of the Mostar Bazaar (Old Town), the colorful traditional Bosniak garb donned by waiters and waitresses will inevitably catch your attention as you make your way through. This is the place to go if you are looking for an eclectic mix of traditional Bosniak cuisine. From stuffed cabbage, to veal cream soup, to grilled meat platters, Sadrvan has it all.

I highly recommend sitting outside on their terrace to soak in the hustle and the bustle from bazaar-goers. 

Hours: Everyday 8AM-11PM

Location: Onešćukova 7, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

3. Mediterana Delicata

As mentioned above, Bosnian meat blows most meat that I’ve had in the United States out of the water. Mediterana Delicata just affirmed this even more. As I was in Mostar during the winter, it was a bit tough to find restaurants that were open (or open late) in the Old Town, so you can imagine my delight when I found Mediterana Delicata was not only open late, but a 2 minute walk from my apartment. 

As you can probably deduce from the name, Mediterana Delicata boasts a healthy mix of mediterranean food, including gnocchi, babaganoush, grilled meat and fish platters, pastas, couscous and more. My go-to meal is their grilled lamb chops (cooked perfectly medium rare), with a side of babaganoush and fried dough sticks. Staff was extremely friendly and I even got to give the chef a fist pound after I told him the lamb chops were some of the best I’ve ever eaten. 

Hours: Monday-Saturday 8AM-10PM, Sunday 8AM-3PM

Location: 88000, Braće Fejića, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

4. Del Rio

If you are looking for an upscale restaurant to split a nice bottle of wine at and see what fine dining in Mostar looks like, Del Rio is the spot for you. Prepared in an open view kitchen, Del Rio offers a blend of Mediterranean and international cuisine and a healthy wine list for restaurant-goers. Staff is extremely attentive, ambience is spot on, prices won’t break the bank, and the view of the Neretva River will keep you coming back. 

Personal favorites here include the veal medallions with gnocchi, octopus salad, and beef filet with pepper sauce.   

Hours: M-F 10AM-11PM, Saturday & Sunday 11:30AM-11PM

Location: Kardinala Stepinca 12, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

5. Restoran Podrum

Just a two minute walk from Star Most (Old Bridge) and located right in the Mostar Bazaar, Restoran Podrum is well worth a visit for travelers looking to sample traditional Bosnian (and European) dishes such as stuffed cabbage, cevapis, and even baklava! 

This is also a great spot for people watching, and I often found myself posted up here chowing down on stuffed cabbage while sipping a coffee and watching the diverse crowd of tourists making their way through the bazaar!

Hours: Everyday 7AM-9PM

Location: Onešćukova, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Bonus Burek: Pekara Lučki Most

After a long day of exploring Bosnia’s waterfalls, mosques, and Old Town, Pekara Lucki Most was just what I needed. And let me tell you, I chowed down on the burek from there like it was my last meal on earth. Burek is a Bosnian meat pie and pastry, stuffed with minced meat (typically beef), and eaten at any time of day. 

Located right near the Lucki Most bridge (hence its name), I ended up at Pekara Lucki Most thanks to a local Bosnian friend I made at the coworking space. He touted Pekara Lucki Most as his favorite burek in all of Mostar, to which I have to say, it was damn good. The pastry was flaky and packed to the brim with meat, and exactly what I needed after a long day exploring. If you are looking for a local pastry shop where the locals eat, Pekara Lucki Most is definitely worth visiting.

Don’t make the mistake I made of referring to pastries stuffed with cottage cheese and potato as “burek,” as Bosnians were quick to remind me that true burek is only stuffed with meat. Croatians typically use the word “burek” as a catch-all for meat, potato, and cottage cheese stuffed pastries, while Bosnians hold true that burek is only stuffed with meat. Cottage cheese-stuffed pastries are called “sirnica” (or zeljanica when a combination of cheese and spinach), while potato-stuffed pastries are called “krompirusa”. 

Either way, you can’t go wrong with one of these hearty pastries. 

Hours: Everyday 6AM-11PM

Location: Maršala Tita, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Now, let’s finally move on to the top things to do in Mostar!

Things to Do in Mostar

Old Bridge/Stari Most

Located right in the heart of the Old Town, Stari Most (also known as the Old Bridge) is the iconic bridge connecting both the East and West sides of Mostar and symbol of Bosnia’s tragic (yet resilient) history. Destroyed during the Croat-Bosniak War of the early to mid-1990s, Stari Most stood for 427 years and was a marvel of Balkan Islamic architecture. Post-war, the Old Bridge was reconstructed, keeping as close to the original in terms of Ottoman construction techniques and materials (limestone). 

If you head to Mostar, checking out the Old Bridge is a given. You can’t miss it. Not only does the Stari Most boast spectacular views of the Neretva River and surrounding mountains, but it also has a touching exhibition and photo gallery detailing its destruction and celebrating the reconstruction of the bridge and its history. Visitors can enter the museum through the Tara Tower, a huge rectangular building on the East (Muslim) side of the river. 

On any given day in the summer, you can find the bridge divers of Mostar, who accept tips for taking the 24 meter plunge into the emerald green (and stunning) Neretva River. The city of Mostar has even embraced the local bridge divers and has a yearly bridge diving contest in late July.       

Pro Tip: Be careful when crossing the bridge as it can be somewhat slippery. Make sure to wear appropriate footwear and you’ll be all set! 

Location: Stari Most, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

The Old Bazaar (Bazar Kujundžiluk)

If you make it to Stari Most, there is no way that you do not pass through the Old Bazaar. Winding along a small cobbled street stretching across both the East and West side of Mostar, the Old Bazaar is filled with countless artisan shops, souvenir stalls, cafes, and restaurants. The Bazaar dates back to the 16th century Ottoman Empire and makes one feel like they are navigating the back alleys of Istanbul, rather than a Balkan city. 

Mostar’s Old Bazaar is pulsating with excitement and a great spot to people watch. I personally recommend posting up at any one of the cafes or restaurants (Restoran Sadrvan or Restoran Podrum included) along the cobbled street to sip an espresso and watch an eclectic mix of people and cultures pass by before your eyes. 

Location: Mala Tepa, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Pro Tip: Passing through Mostar’s Old Bazaar and looking for a caffeine staple in Mostar? Check out Cafe De Alma, a popular roastery where staff walks you through Bosnian coffee drinking rituals and teach you how to drink coffee like a local!

Crooked Bridge (Kriva Cuprija)

Make your way across Stari Most and to the West Side (and through the Old Bazaar) and you’ll come out adjacent to Kriva Cuprija – a one-arch stone bridge (and perfect semicircle) dating back to 1558 and before the construction of Stari Most! 

The Crooked Bridge is believed to have been constructed as a “trial run” before the construction of Stari Most. Unfortunately, it was destroyed in 2001 due to flooding, however it has been rebuilt and is a great little spot to wind down and watch at Mostar sunset at. 

I recommend heading to the Crooked Bridge early in the morning or at sunset to catch some beautiful views of the Neretva. 

Location: Mostarskog bataljona, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Karadoz Bey Mosque 

Constructed in the mid-16th century the Karadoz Bey Mosque of Mostar is the largest mosque in Herzegovina and a symbol of Bosnia’s Ottoman history and architecture. 

Like most major monuments and buildings in Mostar, it was nearly completely destroyed during the Bosnian War (and significantly damaged during World War II), however it was repaired and reconstructed in the early 2000s. 

The Karadoz Bey Mosque sports a veranda and one of the tallest minarets in the region, and is listed as one of Bosnia’s national monuments. I recommend heading to the mosque after checking out the Old Bridge, as it is only a several minute walk. 

Location: Braće Fejića, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Mostar Museums to Check Out

Museum of War and Genocide Victims 1992-1995

A sobering reality of the atrocities committed during the Bosnian War of the early 1990s (one of the most brutal wars in all of history), the Museum of War and Genocide Victims is a must-go for anyone in Mostar looking to pay respect and learn about Bosnia’s tragic and resilient history. 

The museum showcases everything from personal belongings and statements from victims, to photographic and video displays of war crimes and concentration camps, all the way to court documents and evidence pertinent to the subsequent genocide trials. There’s even a room for visitors to leave post-it messages on the wall. 

I would argue that this is the most important museum in all of Mostar (and Herzegovina). 

The Museum of War and Genocide Victims is extremely powerful and there are quite a lot of graphic details and sobering descriptions of the genocide that took place. While the museum itself is quite small, it is jam packed with information, so I would recommend setting aside at least two hours to fully read through everything. 

I’m a big believer in confronting uncomfortable and disturbing past truths to better prevent such atrocities today, and this museum is one of the most sobering reminders I’ve encountered. 

Hours: Everyday 9AM-9PM – Do note that Winter hours are inconsistent

Location: Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Herzegovina Museum

Housed in the former home of Yugoslav Communist politician Džemal Bijedić (who died in a plane crash in the late 1970s), the Herzegovina Museum is a small museum with small relics and artifacts associated with Herzegovina’s (the Southern region of Bosnia) history. 

The museum contains a video and descriptions of the destruction and reconstruction of the Stari Most (Old Bridge), traditional Bosnian furniture and antiques, a model village, and information about life under Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian rule.   

The entrance can be a difficult one to locate (I found myself wandering around for about 10 minutes), and has been described as “not very tourist friendly” (as it is difficult to find). Keep an eye out for a giant brownish double door with a white plaque reading ‘Herzegovina Museum’ and you’ll fare better than I!

Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 8AM-4PM, Monday Closed – Do note that Winter hours are inconsistent

Location: Bajatova, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Digital Nomad Tip: Traveling to Mostar and looking to get some work done while you’re here? Make sure to check out Code Hub Mostar, a completely free, well-equipped, high quality coworking space. I can’t recommend it enough.

Take a Day Trip Outside of Mostar

I’ll let my photos do most of the talking for the below three places – all of which I cannot recommend enough. From what I know about venturing outside of Mostar, these three attractions are typically all tackled together in the same day by either renting a car or with a tour guide. 

I would set aside an entire day to tackle all three sites and tackle all the above activities and sights in a day or two. 

Pocitelj

Located nearly 20 miles south of Mostar in the Capljina municipality (and along the bank of the Neretva River), Pocitelj is a historic medieval village and open-air museum which played an important strategic role from the 13th to 17th century for both the Hungarians and Ottomans. Piceltj boasts a silo-shaped fort overlooking the Neretva and mosque dating back to 1563, making for an interesting mix of Hungarian and Ottoman history. 

One of my favorite photos I took from atop the Pocitelj fort.

This is just a fascinating little village that makes one feel like they have stepped all the way back to medieval times thanks to the cobbled paths and stone buildings. Post-Bosnian War destruction and near decimation, Pocitelj was named by the World Monuments Watch as one of the most endangered cultural heritage sites, so it is worth checking out in case anything does happen to it (there is an unfortunately concern over a nearby highway’s effect on the village in the future). 

It was a rainy day when I went to Pocitelj, which gave it an ethereal vibe.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/Jzpx5MVGPKfNPvp47 

Kravice Waterfalls 

Tourists and locals can be found lounging in the water, sipping a coffee at one of the small cafes, and even using the rope swing at Kravice. Best time to go? Springtime.

Located just 25 miles (40 kilometers) to the south of Mostar, Kravica (also known as Kravice) is a popular swimming hole and picnic area that makes one feel as if they are deep in the heart of a jungle, rather than in the middle of the Balkans. 

While most tourists passing through Mostar tackle all three (Pocitelj, Kravice, and Blagaj) in a single day, Kravice would be the one of the three that I could post up at all day. Unfortunately, I went to the Kravice Waterfalls during the winter, so I was unable to actually hang out there for an extended period of time. However, my Bosnian buddy let me know that Kravice is a popular spot in the summer for both tourists and locals to come and post up at, drink beers, relax at one of the small cafes/restaurants directly next to the waterfalls, and swim (and lounge) in the water. 

Kravice is plain out gorgeous – turquoise water, raging waterfalls, and a vibe that just makes you want to jump right in – the Kravice Waterfalls are a must for anyone wanting to cool down, experience Bosnia’s incredible beauty, and get outside the city. 

Location: Studenci bb, Studenci Ljubuški 88320, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Blagaj & Blagaj Tekija

Blagaj is a 600-year-old village and Dervish monastery located at the base of a cliff along the spring of the Buna River. The Blagaj Tekija is the monastery, combining both Ottoman and Mediterranean architectural elements, which visitors can enter to partake in daily prayers (or just view. 

Blagaj also hosts various restaurants along the river to relax at, enjoy traditional Bosnian dishes, or sip on Bosnian coffee.   

Location: Blagaj bb, 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Final Reflections on Things to Do in Mostar

As you can see, Mostar isn’t the one or two day trip that most people make it out to be. This city has it all – from incredible grilled meats, to stunning Ottoman architecture, all the way to serene natural landscapes – you can’t go wrong when visiting Mostar. Mostar (and Bosnia in general) won me over, and it will be one of the first destinations I head back to during my next stint in Europe.

If you’ve been to Mostar and had a great experience, I’d love to hear from you in the comments! Let me know a favorite spot you snagged a coffee at, whether you floated around (and drank beers) in the water at Kravice, or if you checked out one of the restaurants I listed above (or any other!). 

I’d also love to hear about any other cities or towns you have been to in Bosnia!

Best,

Big Body